Suggestions on subframe connectors for 70 Challenger?

[dakota]

I've been exploring options for subframe connectors for my 70 Challenger.   It has a stock 340 4-bbl but at some point in the future I'm may be doing an swap to a modern hemi, so I'm looking for the best option to start stiffening the frame. The bolt-on type are more appealing to me from a do-it-yourself standpoint, but I don't know how much of the stiffness benefit I'm giving up my steering clear of the weld-on type.  I'd prefer not to cut up the floor pan, so the available options would appear to be:

Unlawful racing:  http://www.unlawfulracing.com/FrameConnectorKits.html

Mopar subframe connectors:  http://www.magnumforce.com/magnumstore/shop/item.aspx?itemid=22

The connectors that come with the Hotckis TVS package appears to need minimal welding.   I've seen the US Car Tool type as well, but some of the posts I've read suggest that they can take a bit of tweaking to fit correctly.   

If there are any strong opinions out there on any of the above (or other types), I'm all ears.   Thanks.




 

[torredcuda]

Bolt ins may offer some stiffening but the welded ones are far better. You can easliy make your own a lot cheaper than spending a lot of money on those pretty ones. 

[Chryco Psycho]

I use 1x2" 1.125 wall tubing , put a notch in them to follow the floor contour & weld them in . $20 / side

[Got JOB]

I have the bolt-on type on my vert. They were bolted then welded. They do the job but hang a little low at the rear because of the design. The ones that are cut to fit the floor pans are a look a lot better.

[moparmaniac59]

US Cartool out of Durham NC makes the contoured subframe connectors for a very good price ($169.00 bucks for the set). These are the ones that are cut to fit the contour of the bottom of the car that are for welding in. Good product from what I hear. See the link! http://store.uscartool.com/70-74-E-Body-frame-connector-dodge-challenger.html   


                                                                        Matt B.

[cudazappa]

Go with any of the bolt on types.  Mount them yourself and drive over to a muffler shop or welder to have them welded in.  The Hotchkis setup is also really nice as you aren't drilling any holes at all.  If I was to do it over again, I'd do it this way.  I went with Auto Rust Technicians (www.autorust.com) where they say you won't cut the floor pan.  Well, I had to.  Wasn't that bad, but in hindsight...

[johns cuda shop]

US Cartool out of Durham NC makes the contoured subframe connectors for a very good price ($169.00 bucks for the set). These are the ones that are cut to fit the contour of the bottom of the car that are for welding in. Good product from what I hear. See the link! http://store.uscartool.com/70-74-E-Body-frame-connector-dodge-challenger.html   


                                                                        Matt B.

  The US Car tool frame connectors fit decent, Some trimming is required..I did mine in a afternoon (see picture). Most of the bolt in ones sit too low to my standard. You could also make your own also and save some $$$

[CUDA JAS]

I am going to attempt to make my own, when the time comes (AKA when ever the hell I buy a welder), copying Brad 70's ideas.

http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=59072.60 Check rely #65.

Jason

[brads70]

I use 1x2" 1.125 wall tubing , put a notch in them to follow the floor contour & weld them in . $20 / side

I agree make your own! As per Neil's suggestion I made my own.  Material cost me like $25 and I had enough to do 2 cars.  I had the US car tool version and sold them, too much fitting and work IMO.
Jason come up next summer and we can build a set for your car too! Some Sunday afternoon or something?

[CUDA JAS]

I agree make your own! As per Neil's suggestion I made my own.  Material cost me like $25 and I had enough to do 2 cars.  I had the US car tool version and sold them, too much fitting and work IMO.
Jason come up next summer and we can build a set for your car too! Some Sunday afternoon or something?

Thanks for the offer brad.  We will have to talk about that in the summer.

Jason

[Cuda Cody]

Remember to think ahead about where your e-brake cable will route.....

[Jesus H Chrysler]

  I have the U.S. Cartool connectors and when it came to the E-Brake cables I had to measure, cut, trim, cut, test fit, trim etc. and welded in a piece of pipe to make a tunnel for the cable.  Fiddly work, but in the end very rigid.

I had a homemade set of connectors in my convertible, made out of 1/8 box channel and I noticed that the floor and connectors flexed independently.  I had changing door gaps when I accelerated or reversed.  The U.S. Cartool ones connect the floor pan to the frame rails directly so hopefully it's going to be more rigid.

[polarbear123]

Hey Dakota what did you end up doing. I am trying to figure out which ones to put in.

[dakota]

No decision made as of yet.   I started asking about subframe connectors before i got the car back from the paint shop (March 2014).   At present, the front suspension is pulled off, the transmission is out, and all of the interior & dash has been removed.   I need to get the car mobile once more in the next couple of months so that I can give the garage back to my wife before the snow flies again.  If time and limited welding skill wasn't an issue, I would go with the US Car Tool connectors to keep them mostly hidden.   The way things are playing out, I will probably have to make do with one of the bolt-ons that are firmed up with welding in someone else's shop later.   

[Katfish]

I did Hotchkis, if I was to do it over, I would prefer the homemade box tubing. 
Don't like how low they sit and not sure they are as stiff, definitely not cheap.