Author Topic: Recommend this!  (Read 6043 times)

Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Recommend this!
« on: December 03, 2013 - 06:39:06 AM »
Helps seal rings against cylinder walls in older engines, by filling in cylinder wall scratches, pitts, etc. Proven to increase cylinder pressure,
decrease oil consumption, improve mileage. Been using in all my older cars for last 15 years.

I'm sure there will be skeptics, but research it yourself.

I add it to the oil when changing oil.

I have thin rings on my pistons, and engine has at least 50,000 on it, so I'm sure that it is helping
to keep cylinder pressure up, and helping to minimize oil consumption.

http://restoreusa.com/Engine_Restorer.html
« Last Edit: December 03, 2013 - 11:56:24 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000




Offline 72cudamaan

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3248
Re: I recommend this!
« Reply #1 on: December 03, 2013 - 08:37:21 AM »
Helps seal rings against cylinder walls in older engines, by filling in cylinder wall scratches, pitts, etc. Proven to increase cylinder pressure,
decrease oil consumption, improve mileage. Been using in all my older cars for last 15 years.

I'm sure there will be skeptics, but research it yourself.

I add it to the oil when changing oil.

I have thin rings on my pistons, and engine has at least 50,000 on it, so I'm sure that it is helping
to keep cylinder pressure up, and helping to minimize oil consumption.

http://restoreusa.com/Engine_Restorer.html



Yep, it works just like STP. It fills in the scratches with a mixture of it's own goo and combustion byproduct.  Seems
to work okay until you change the oil and flush it all out. Then you add it again and the cycle continues. Why not just rebuild the engine properly and be done with it. An engine with 50000 shouldn't need it anyway.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Re: I recommend this!
« Reply #2 on: December 03, 2013 - 09:08:44 AM »

Yep, it works just like STP. It fills in the scratches with a mixture of it's own goo and combustion byproduct.  Seems
to work okay until you change the oil and flush it all out. Then you add it again and the cycle continues. Why not just rebuild the engine properly and be done with it. An engine with 50000 shouldn't need it anyway.

An engine with thin rings and driven hard, at 50,000, may be starting to lose cylinder pressure.  Also, it
can depend on how well the engine was built/assembled/maintained in the first place.  I have had several Accords up
near 300,000 miles that were running strong, in part, due to this product, I think.
Think I'd try this for $10 before trying a rebuild. Pretty sure its different from STP.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2013 - 09:11:07 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 72cudamaan

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3248
Re: I recommend this!
« Reply #3 on: December 03, 2013 - 09:19:44 AM »
What could you possibly pour into an engine that could correct a mechanical problem? It either cleans the carbon from behind
the rings so they move properly, or it get's behind the rings and collects combustion byproduct and forces the
rings out. Hence the need to replenish the product at every oil change.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Re: I recommend this!
« Reply #4 on: December 03, 2013 - 09:39:50 AM »
What could you possibly pour into an engine that could correct a mechanical problem? It either cleans the carbon from behind
the rings so they move properly, or it get's behind the rings and collects combustion byproduct and forces the
rings out. Hence the need to replenish the product at every oil change.

If it seals and deposits itself into cylinder wall imperfections, which it claims to do, then you are correcting a mechanical/physical problem
by poring a chemical into your oil. The imperfections seal, and you get more cylinder pressure and less blowby. Pretty sure the sealants deposited in the cylinder walls are not washed away when the oil is drained. Pretty much like the special fluoride toothpaste seals crevices in our tooth enamel, I suppose, which my dentist makes me use. He says the paste has caused beginning cavities to cease and fill up,sealing themselves. (sorry for the dental analogy) I'll gladly put chemicals
in my mouth to avoid the drill!

Or, another analogy, you put chemicals in your radiator to stop leaks.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2013 - 09:42:35 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 72cudamaan

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3248
Re: I recommend this!
« Reply #5 on: December 03, 2013 - 01:25:18 PM »
If it seals and deposits itself into cylinder wall imperfections, which it claims to do, then you are correcting a mechanical/physical problem
by poring a chemical into your oil. The imperfections seal, and you get more cylinder pressure and less blowby. Pretty sure the sealants deposited in the cylinder walls are not washed away when the oil is drained. Pretty much like the special fluoride toothpaste seals crevices in our tooth enamel, I suppose, which my dentist makes me use. He says the paste has caused beginning cavities to cease and fill up,sealing themselves. (sorry for the dental analogy) I'll gladly put chemicals
in my mouth to avoid the drill!

Or, another analogy, you put chemicals in your radiator to stop leaks.

Sorry Bob, as I've stated countless times, I do NOT put stop leak in my radiator. I fix it properly. And yes, when you change your oil, if you don't put that STP crap back in your engine then those imperfections in the cylinder walls will
show up again. If it works so well, then why do you need that clumsy looking tube coming off of your valve cover? Probably
because there is blow-by. And apparently it isn't getting fixed with your witches brew. If you don't know the facts about something then I would suggest you take a back seat and just listen and learn.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline HP_Cuda

  • Hit the skinny little pedal on the right!
  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5268
  • Mopar or No Car!
Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #6 on: December 03, 2013 - 04:56:40 PM »

Two words = compression check
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline 72cudamaan

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3248
Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #7 on: December 03, 2013 - 05:47:49 PM »
Two words = compression check

Unfortunately a compression check nor a leak down test will give an indication of a bad oil ring. Honda's go 100 thousand plus
as long as their oil rings don't sludge up.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline HP_Cuda

  • Hit the skinny little pedal on the right!
  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 5268
  • Mopar or No Car!
Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #8 on: December 03, 2013 - 06:14:49 PM »

What you look for is wide variances between cylinders would be a tip off.

It will tell you if the rings are going. Let me show you.

Do the compression check, find the cylinder with the lowest reading. Add some oil into that cylinder and check again, if the compression comes up from there then you know you have a ring problem in that cylinder.

 
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline 72cudamaan

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3248
Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #9 on: December 03, 2013 - 07:45:54 PM »
What you look for is wide variances between cylinders would be a tip off.

It will tell you if the rings are going. Let me show you.

Do the compression check, find the cylinder with the lowest reading. Add some oil into that cylinder and check again, if the compression comes up from there then you know you have a ring problem in that cylinder.

Again, that will show if the compression rings are sealing. But it won't help you determine if the oil rings
are sealing properly.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Re: I recommend this!
« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2013 - 10:53:34 PM »
Sorry Bob, as I've stated countless times, I do NOT put stop leak in my radiator. I fix it properly. And yes, when you change your oil, if you don't put that STP crap back in your engine then those imperfections in the cylinder walls will
show up again. If it works so well, then why do you need that clumsy looking tube coming off of your valve cover? Probably
because there is blow-by. And apparently it isn't getting fixed with your witches brew. If you don't know the facts about something then I would suggest you take a back seat and just listen and learn.

OK, but a few points:

1) millions of people do put stop leak in their radiators, and consider it a good fix.

2) The clumsy tube coming off my valve cover is a PCV line, with an oil separator. The oil
separator removes oil in the PCV line that is sucked up from the valve train area. The oil
separator is not there to collect blow-by.

3)  the "witches brew" (Engine Restorer) restores the seal between the rings and the cylinder walls.
This increases cylinder pressure, engine power, and helps reduce oil consumption. They sell millions of bottles,
so I suspect people have discovered the product does what they say it will do. Seems to work for me, so I passed this
information on to possibly help fellow motor-heads.

4) As far as taking a back seat, I choose to share what I have learned from wrenching on the same Cuda
for 22 years, and researching and reading a lot of car material.  I'm sure we all have information and experiences
that can helps others. People should consider my 2 cents, if they want, and that of others, and make their own informed decisions.

5) If you have proof or evidence that Engine Restorer does not work, please provide it for our consideration. Until I see that evidence
or proof, I'll probably keep using it, and recommending it.
« Last Edit: December 03, 2013 - 11:16:42 PM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 72cudamaan

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3248
Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #11 on: December 03, 2013 - 11:18:23 PM »
I'm just asking you to explain how "engine restorer" works. And have you done a compression test before and after?
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline cudabob496

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 8024
Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #12 on: December 03, 2013 - 11:45:27 PM »
I'm just asking you to explain how "engine restorer" works. And have you done a compression test before and after?

On the link I've given, click on Road Test.
I have not personally done testing on their product,
but from what I've read, and what I've heard, it seems to work, so I throw
a bottle in, for every oil change.  It seems to keep my old Honda's
running strong. My present 93 Honda has 240,000 on it, and burns no noticeable oil, and can
fly down the freeway, and over hills, with little effort.

I do remember putting it in two older used cars I bought, and the engines in a month or two
felt like they ran stronger, but I did not do before and after compression tests.

For $10 an oil change, just the savings due to better fuel mileage will pay for it many times over.
« Last Edit: December 04, 2013 - 12:27:09 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline ChallengerHK

  • Sr. Resident
  • ******
  • Posts: 7338
  • I'm working on it - No, really
Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #13 on: December 04, 2013 - 02:45:26 AM »
I have no experience one way or another with this product. However...my 93 Escort has 325,000 miles on it when it died of electronic failure. It never used oil over the course of it's life and had excellent performance and practically no oil consumption. (Ford engineers tell me that I owned a true anamoly  :bigsmile:)


"She'll make point five past light speed. She may not look like much, but she's got it where it counts, and I've made a lot of special modifications myself."

- Han Solo, Star Wars

Advice Thread - Taking Pictures Of Cars

Offline 72cudamaan

  • Resident
  • *****
  • Posts: 3248
Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #14 on: December 04, 2013 - 08:31:48 AM »
On the link I've given, click on Road Test.
I have not personally done testing on their product,
but from what I've read, and what I've heard, it seems to work, so I throw
a bottle in, for every oil change.  It seems to keep my old Honda's
running strong. My present 93 Honda has 240,000 on it, and burns no noticeable oil, and can
fly down the freeway, and over hills, with little effort.

I do remember putting it in two older used cars I bought, and the engines in a month or two
felt like they ran stronger, but I did not do before and after compression tests.

For $10 an oil change, just the savings due to better fuel mileage will pay for it many times over.


So you don't even know if it works? It "seems" to work? Why throw $10 away at every oil change if you can't
even tell if you're getting results. I wouldn't mind you or anyone else suggesting using these products if you have
factual proof that they work. And proof doesn't necessarily come honestly from the manufacturer.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)