Author Topic: Recommend this!  (Read 6059 times)

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #15 on: December 04, 2013 - 09:58:55 AM »

So you don't even know if it works? It "seems" to work? Why throw $10 away at every oil change if you can't
even tell if you're getting results. I wouldn't mind you or anyone else suggesting using these products if you have
factual proof that they work. And proof doesn't necessarily come honestly from the manufacturer.

Based on my research and experience, and many written testimonials, I'm pretty confident it works.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000




Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #16 on: December 04, 2013 - 10:27:09 AM »
I'm just asking you to explain how "engine restorer" works. And have you done a compression test before and after?

I thought you didn't believe in compression tests?  :clueless:
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #17 on: December 04, 2013 - 10:53:27 AM »

So you don't even know if it works? It "seems" to work? Why throw $10 away at every oil change if you can't
even tell if you're getting results. I wouldn't mind you or anyone else suggesting using these products if you have
factual proof that they work. And proof doesn't necessarily come honestly from the manufacturer.

So, Cudamaan, if you built yourself an engine, and 5 years later the cylinder pressure was down 25 psig, due to
normal wear, would you try a bottle of this stuff, or rebuild the engine. Keeping in mind that for most of us, if we had a similar
situation, an engine rebuild would be in the $5000 to $10,000 range, and a bottle of this stuff is $10.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #18 on: December 04, 2013 - 11:09:35 AM »
Based on my research and experience, and many written testimonials, I'm pretty confident it works.


Bob, you're skirting the issue. DOES IT FIX ANYTHING? Or does it only work as a band-aid? If it does work, what
specifically does it do? I've told you what I believe it does, now what do you think it does?
« Last Edit: December 04, 2013 - 11:16:32 AM by 72cudamaan »
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #19 on: December 04, 2013 - 11:11:41 AM »
I thought you didn't believe in compression tests?  :clueless:

Where did you get any such idea. I only said that a compression test will not tell you the condition of the oil rings as they
were not designed to hold compression. But if the oil rings seize then your oil consumption would increase dramatically.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #20 on: December 04, 2013 - 11:15:06 AM »
So, Cudamaan, if you built yourself an engine, and 5 years later the cylinder pressure was down 25 psig, due to
normal wear, would you try a bottle of this stuff, or rebuild the engine. Keeping in mind that for most of us, if we had a similar
situation, an engine rebuild would be in the $5000 to $10,000 range, and a bottle of this stuff is $10.

Why would it cost 5-10k to rering an engine? My research shows that most musclecar owners can tear an engine down and rering it!
With gaskets, rings and even bearings you would be at 500 dollars max.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline HP_Cuda

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #21 on: December 04, 2013 - 01:56:16 PM »

Tell you what, you can tear down the motor and find out then.

 :bigsmile:

Where did you get any such idea. I only said that a compression test will not tell you the condition of the oil rings as they
were not designed to hold compression. But if the oil rings seize then your oil consumption would increase dramatically.
1970 Cuda Clone 440 4 speed - sublime green
1970 Cuda 383 4 speed - yellow - SOLD

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #22 on: December 05, 2013 - 01:41:09 AM »
Why would it cost 5-10k to rering an engine? My research shows that most musclecar owners can tear an engine down and rering it!
With gaskets, rings and even bearings you would be at 500 dollars max.


Most muscle car owners can tear down an engine, and re-ring it for $500!? I'd guess 5 to 10% max! If I had the tools and space,
I would still not dissemble the short block, rebuild, and be responsible for 500 cu in spinning at 6500 rpm!. I'd rather pay an
expert! I had a well known mechanic go through my short block 12 years ago, for $2000, and been running great since. I can bolt
on the goodies, but that's about it. If you want it done right, and have a limited budget, its best to pay the people that have been doing
it their whole life, and have a great reputation.

Jan & Dean - Little Old Lady From Pasadena
« Last Edit: December 05, 2013 - 02:20:58 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline cbrxxtreme

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #23 on: December 05, 2013 - 09:42:14 PM »
I used it when it came out, and I started driving back in the early 1990's... Cant tell you if it worked or not? Seemed to make the Renualt Alliance I used it in run a lil stronger according to my ass dyno, but the car only had about 80 horsepower at the crank anyway. It is different from the STP molassis crap, supposed to have silcone or something like that to seal cylender walls. I cant say if it works or not? Most cars up here rust out, and rot into the ground before any engine problems, or the salt eats the wire harness till they dont run, or both. If it works for you, then it is cheap piece of mind, I do know from experiance it will not harm your engine. The "blue fish" is picky on oil as to what makes good pressure, so I will stick with Pensoil sae 30 and nothing else for now. The rest of the rigs will be traded into the scrap yard when the seats rot through the floorboards (at far less than 300,000 miles. 1/2 that if I'm lucky). Guess what I'm tryen to say if it works for you use it, if ya don't wanna.... Then don't. Life is too short to argue about it. :2cents:
Dads 1 owner 1970 Barracuda convertible.

Offline PlumCraZRT

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #24 on: December 06, 2013 - 12:49:56 AM »
Guess what I'm tryen to say if it works for you use it, if ya don't wanna.... Then don't. Life is too short to argue about it. :2cents:

I think what 72cudamaan (and I) have a problem with is the pushing of a product without providing any substantial proof that the product actually works.
mmmmm.... Mopar.... *drool*

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #25 on: December 06, 2013 - 01:31:22 AM »
I think what 72cudamaan (and I) have a problem with is the pushing of a product without providing any substantial proof that the product actually works.

Pushing a product? No, recommending it.
Notice I said in the first post "research it yourself"
And, I will stop using the product if you provide "substantial proof" it does not work.
Its not like my neighbor and I mixed this up in our basement, and are trying
to "pull one over" on the participants in this chat room.
Its a multi-million dollar company that has sold millions of bottles of this stuff
over the last 20 years or so! If this product helps someones car run better,
and allows them to postpone an expensive rebuild, then this post may have some value.

Maybe someone on this site, who has an engine with a lot of miles on it, could try this product, do
a cylinder pressure test, before and after trying it, and report back to us? If their cylinder pressure goes up, that
would help show it works.

I think anyone on this site, who has a good experience with a product, should share it with others, if its
helping their Mopar to run better!
« Last Edit: December 06, 2013 - 05:22:06 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline cbrxxtreme

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #26 on: December 06, 2013 - 08:10:39 PM »
Just want to appologise, and pull my foot out of my mouth for the last sentence in my post. I made that statement due to losses of close friends/family and remembering having silly arguements with them. I had no idea of 72cudamans situation till just now when I read the thread on the main page., realised how inappropriate the comment was, and just wanted to clairify that it was  not meant in a deragratory way. Sorry Andy, didn't know at the time, and wasn't a personal attack. Just remember having a similar arguement with a friend who swore I should use Rotella 15w-40 oil in everything. Stupid arguement, and I shoulda just nodded, and smiled and enjoyed the time spent. Godspeed, and don't stop fighting the good fight.
Dads 1 owner 1970 Barracuda convertible.

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #27 on: December 06, 2013 - 11:12:47 PM »
Just want to appologise, and pull my foot out of my mouth for the last sentence in my post. I made that statement due to losses of close friends/family and remembering having silly arguements with them. I had no idea of 72cudamans situation till just now when I read the thread on the main page., realised how inappropriate the comment was, and just wanted to clairify that it was  not meant in a deragratory way. Sorry Andy, didn't know at the time, and wasn't a personal attack. Just remember having a similar arguement with a friend who swore I should use Rotella 15w-40 oil in everything. Stupid arguement, and I shoulda just nodded, and smiled and enjoyed the time spent. Godspeed, and don't stop fighting the good fight.

No offense taken. I agree life IS too short for petty "arguments" like this. I'm sorry it had come to this. I was just trying to debate the use of such products and whether they actually work as stated or not. Kinda went over the edge.
Thanks for the comment and helping me plant my butt back into reality.  :cheers:
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #28 on: December 07, 2013 - 02:49:08 AM »
Found this on UTube:


Restore Engine Treatment




(I disagree with his recommendation to not use with synthetic oil. I've used synthetic oils for last
20 years, and Engine Restorer has worked with them very well. His reasoning that synthetics don't
stick to cylinder walls does not make sense, but that's a whole other discussion)
« Last Edit: December 07, 2013 - 06:30:03 AM by cudabob496 »
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline cbrxxtreme

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Re: Recommend this!
« Reply #29 on: December 07, 2013 - 10:28:54 PM »
I worked at a grease n go no wait oil change place while in college, and at that time Quaker state had a free 250,000 mile warrenty for any new car. Had to have less than 10k (if I rember right), and had to keep reciepts for every oil change from a Quaker State dealer, and do them every 3k miles. And you could not use any additives to the oil or it voided the warrenty. Until Quaker State bought out Slick-50. Then they wanted us to push that to everyone, even our mothers to drink! Not really, but it was the greatest  thing once they bought it, now that is a product that was claiming to make the oil slipperier, thus less friction, thus longer engine life. My thing was if they were offering a 250k warrenty for using their oil, why would using slick 50 benifit you? Like I said I used the restore, and it did make the old puke green renault a little more responsive, but never had any proof, so could have been in my head? Also as it was described to me is synthetic oil has all its molocules the same size, where as conventional oil has large, and small molocules, the small ones blow by the rings, and the large ones eventually get broke down to smaller than small ones and blow by more. Wasn't persay much if any slipperier, just less likely to be broke down as fast. But run synthetic in an old high milage car that has never run synthetic, and will leak out of every gasket in the motor. When Pensoil bought Quaker State in the late 1990's they said it would be common for our Quaker state customers who switch to Pensoil to experiance a lot of smoking, and oil consumption for a period of time, perhaps the whole 3k miles of the oil change
Dads 1 owner 1970 Barracuda convertible.