Author Topic: Carb and Intake question  (Read 5195 times)

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #15 on: June 11, 2014 - 08:11:32 AM »
Most CFM Calculators will end up with a far too small carb , either because the carb doesn't really flow the advertised CFM or engines can actually pull over 100% VE even without a supercharger , 2 x the CFM works best for sure .

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Offline Recovering Cuda

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #16 on: June 12, 2014 - 07:27:02 AM »
Thanks for all the info.   I had my manifold for some time now and yesterday I pulled it back out to check what came with it.   Anyway,  now I have a few more questions.   If you please gents:

1.  Do the pipe plugs need any sealer on the threads before installation?  If so, what do you recommend?

2.  Do I need a carb spacer?  If so, what would be the recommended thickness?

3.  Would Stainless steel bolts be Okay to use to bolt the manifold to the heads?  What is the best type of sealer for them?

4.  What sealer do you recommend for the intake gaskets?

And any other tips would be appreciated.

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #17 on: June 12, 2014 - 08:31:27 AM »
1- Yes , Teflon pipe sealer or silicone will work .
2- spacers can be helpful for limiting heat to the carb , 1/2 " or so be careful of hood clearance , I would also recommend blocking the heat crossover in the manifold using a piece of the old gasket cut to fit .
3- Do not use stainless bolts , they will often tear up the threads , gall etc , you need use regular steel bolts .
4- Ultra Grey or Black silicone if the gaskets do not have sealer already on them , use along the bottom of the gaskets where the oil will try to seep up , & around the water ports also use some silicone on the bolts so oil will not come up the bolt threads .

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Offline cudabob496

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #18 on: June 12, 2014 - 05:53:33 PM »
1- Yes , Teflon pipe sealer or silicone will work .
2- spacers can be helpful for limiting heat to the carb , 1/2 " or so be careful of hood clearance , I would also recommend blocking the heat crossover in the manifold using a piece of the old gasket cut to fit .
3- Do not use stainless bolts , they will often tear up the threads , gall etc , you need use regular steel bolts .
4- Ultra Grey or Black silicone if the gaskets do not have sealer already on them , use along the bottom of the gaskets where the oil will try to seep up , & around the water ports also use some silicone on the bolts so oil will not come up the bolt threads .

My intake bolts are ARP stainless. I used anti-seize when installing. Hope that will be ok?
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #19 on: June 12, 2014 - 06:02:50 PM »
Generally yes , anti seize definatly will help but oil may wash it away , stainless will usually gall & tear up threads in iron so I try to avoid using stainless bolts .

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Offline cudabob496

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #20 on: June 12, 2014 - 07:17:30 PM »
Generally yes , anti seize definatly will help but oil may wash it away , stainless will usually gall & tear up threads in iron so I try to avoid using stainless bolts .

ok, in this case it went into aluminum, so I'm probably ok.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Recovering Cuda

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #21 on: June 13, 2014 - 06:57:54 AM »
Chryco, thanks for the detailed info, but now two more questions.   What were you referring too about the heat cross over?  are you talking about a gasket between the spacer and carb?    As far as the bolts are concerned, what grade is acceptable?  Grade 8?

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #22 on: June 13, 2014 - 08:03:43 AM »
the heat crossover is the heat port in the center of the head
 Grade 5 is normal for an intake grade is overkill but will be fine , they only torque to 30 lbs

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Offline Recovering Cuda

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #23 on: June 13, 2014 - 12:45:17 PM »
Got it.  Thanks again. 

Offline Recovering Cuda

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #24 on: June 30, 2014 - 04:33:48 PM »
Sorry Gents, but I'm back again.  Removed the old take and did my clean up work.  Replaced the manifold and carb and she fired right up.  Tuned up the carb, played with the choke and everything was fine.  Then I noticed an oil leak on the driver side.  Oil was running down the side of the engine between the block and bell housing.  Research here told me that the manifold (which I confirmed) was leaking.  Took it all apart gain (I love doing things twice) and found that the amount of RVT I put down was not even close to enough.  The manifold never came into contact with the amount of RTV that I put at the back side of the engine or front for that matter.  Now, this is an Edelbrock intake and they recommend a 1/4 inch bead on the front and rear of the manifold without gaskets.  I evidently did not come close to that amount.......My Fault!.  So, the intake gasket kit comes with cork end gaskets for the manifold.  Given the large gap that has to be filled to prevent leaks, why not use the gaskets along with the RTV?   I have everything disassembled (again) and am ready to reassemble......but before I do I want your advice.  Do I goop the hell out of the RTV or use the cork gaskets and slather them with RTV to ensure a seal.

I feel like an idiot since I have read several responses on this site about this issue.  But still, can I use the cork and if not why?

Any advice is soooooooo welcome.

One more question.   I used Ultra Black as a sealant on front and rear.....Good or should I use the Red RTV?
« Last Edit: June 30, 2014 - 04:36:18 PM by Recovering Cuda »

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #25 on: June 30, 2014 - 05:53:17 PM »
Ultra Black is great , , I always use the Cork , if you look close there is a hole in the center of the rail that you RTV coated , u can put in a piece of nail or roll pin etc to hold the cork in place int he center , there should ba a corresponding hole in the intake & cut the pin / nail / screw to fit .
 I hate doing things tice also !!

Challenger - You`ll wish You Hadn`t

Offline cudabob496

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #26 on: June 30, 2014 - 07:34:58 PM »
with things cleaned up, and without gaskets, lay intake in there, and see how big any gaps are, to have a better idea
of what you are dealing with.
72 Cuda, owned 25 years. 496, with ported Stage VI heads, .625 in solid roller, 254/258 at .050, 3500 stall, 3.91 rear. 850 Holley DP, Reverse manual valve body.

1999 Trans Am, LS1, heads, cam, headers, stall, etc! Love to surprise the rice rockets with this one. They seem so confident, then it's "what the heck just happened?"

2011 Kawasaki Z1000

Offline Recovering Cuda

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #27 on: July 01, 2014 - 08:23:24 AM »
Chryco,  as a reminder, I'm using a Edelbrock manifold that does not have a pin hole on either end.  The instructions say to remove the pins from the block (on Chrysler) prior to assembly.  PO must have done this already.  Anyway, I think "slippage" is the concern with using the cork but if I put them in place and let them cure prior to placing the manifold on this should reduce /  eliminate this issue......correct?

Thanks for the responses. 

Offline Strawdawg

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #28 on: July 01, 2014 - 12:21:36 PM »
put a paper thin smear of black on the bottom, stick them in place and press down a bit...let sit for about 30 minutes and they will be well glued into place...then check and see if the intake is going to compress the cork a bit when bolted down...if doubtful, put a bead on top as well as in the corners.  I usually let it set for about 20 minutes so that it is skinned over a bit on the surface before putting the intake on...this keeps it from gluing such that it will not want to come off...

Offline Chryco Psycho

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Re: Carb and Intake question
« Reply #29 on: July 01, 2014 - 12:55:05 PM »
I have often drilled small holes in the intake but they generally will not slip out  & installed pins to help support the gasket in the middle

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