Flickering Instrument Panel Lights and Headlights

[cv70chall]

I have an update on my flickering headlights and dash instrument lights...
I removed the bad dash panel dimmer switch from just below the headlight switch and left it out so I could locate a replacement that works. (I bought one from a guy on Ebay who claimed it was "working when removed" and it was a corroded ridiculous waste of time.) So, I will have no dash lights for a little while.
I decided to install the dual relays for the hi and lo beams, so I built my own harnesses and located the relays just under the battery tray.
I ran the grounds right up to the main ground at the radiator support and ran the main harnesses under the tray towards the firewall and up right next to the starter relay where I attached the power for the relays and two 15A fuseholders. I then spliced into the headlight wires (violet and red) and made everything nice and neat.
After starting up the car, I checked the lights and they worked correctly (No smoke yea!) and noticed that the relays clicked when I turned off the lights, which I assume is correct.
To my disappointment, the headlights STILL flickered. %*(#!@
I am hoping that replacing the dash dimmer switch will resolve this problem, although I have another question that may be related.
I decided to check the voltage regulator by putting a multi-meter on the battery with the car at idle to check voltage.
At Idle, I was getting 14.5 to 14.76 volts, which seems a bit high. When I increased the engine RPM,s I noticed that the voltage INCREASED to 15.2 to 15.65 volts, which I don't think is good!
Do I replace the voltage regulator? (The one I have was a new replacement)
And will replacing the regulator solve my continuing problems?
And, do I replace the hi-lo beam floor switch as well?

Thanks

CVchall70
User avatar

[Jamiez]

I replaced the VR in my charger this summer and the new one would just run away, letting the voltage get to 16V+.  I went back the the VR that came with the car and everything went back to normal.  Wish I had done it before it burned up my Tach.

I would definitely swap in the other VR and see if that fixes it.  You can also remove the alternator from the circuit entirely and see what the voltage does with the charging circuit removed (it should drop slowly).

[blown motor]

My panel light dimmer switch also didn't work so we just installed a jumper wire. I have dash lights, I just can't adjust them but I don't find them too bright. Actually it's just right. I know it's not a factory original situation but in this case I'm not concerned about that.

[MEK-Dangerfield]

My panel light dimmer switch also didn't work so we just installed a jumper wire. I have dash lights, I just can't adjust them but I don't find them too bright. Actually it's just right. I know it's not a factory original situation but in this case I'm not concerned about that.

Way back when  bought my car, the dash lights didn't work either. I replaced the dimmer with a toggle switch on the switch pod side. So my lights are nice and bright now, but not over-bearing in any way.   

[Bullitt-]

member posted this re: corroded dimmer http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=96149.msg944336#msg944336
I would cover with dielectric geese to protect afterward.....or get it rebuilt by member Slotts http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=64880.msg701492#msg701492

As to your flickering lights I would guess it's a ground issue, possibly the VR is not grounded well or the engine to firewall ground is poor or missing.

[Chryco Psycho]

The headlight flicker is odd , using relays shunts the power direct to the battery , so if it flickers either the source through the headlight switch is intermittent which you should be able to tell by holding the relay & feeling it click , if the relay is not clicking then the power should be stable to the lights direct from the battery , so it could be the ground .

[cv70chall]

Installed relay bank for headlights, new VR, new Alternator and upgraded all wires and connectors.
Problem is gone!

[dodj]

 

[YellowThumper]

Good news

[money pit]

You may want to check your batteries in you multimeter. I had the same situation except the meter read 17 volts at idle. I changed the voltage reg and it was the same. I changed the battery in my meter and the voltage was normal. I can't explain it, but it happened.

[Travis Blake]

Had similar issue. I had JS restorations rebuild my rheostat and light switch. And they work flawlessly, and I didn't have to jump any wires. He's a great guy. Super thorough, and honest. Answers any questions before, during and after you buy from him.

[cv70chall]

Replacing the headlamp switch, dimmer and installing headlight relays totally helped. Problem solved!