Where to get front end rebuild parts ?

[69CHARGERMD]

I have the motor and trans out.  I need to rebuild the entire front end.

Where do you guys recomend getting all new front suspension stuff ? ( ball joints, tie rods, bushings, etc ) **********************************

Do you recomend polyurethane , graphite, rubber ?

Also need torsion bars, and i am familiar with firm feel, leaning toward their 1.06 bar or a bit higher.

I would also like to put a front ( maybe rear ) sway bar

Car will be just for the street, no road racing or drag racing, ( love the hotchkis stuff, but more than I need )

Thanks for any comments. 

Doug

[Chryco Psycho]

I would use Rock auto for the ball joints , tierod ends etc
 I typically use the poly bushings from Energy & use lots of the special grease for them jEGS OR sUMMIT
You could buy a complete kit from PST or similar but I think the cost is higher that way
Hotchkiss has the light weight hollow sway bars , I prefer the factory style that hangs on the frame & links to the diff for the rear bars over the ones that mount to the diff & link to the frame

[69CHARGERMD]

THANKS Chryco,,,,,

[Road_Runner]

I'm going to be doing a suspension rebuild soon on my Barracuda and based on a lot of discussions here I'm going back with Moog rubber pieces throughout.  Mine is not going to be a autocross car, and I'll already be running firmer springs & sway bars front & back so a little flex in these parts is worth it to keep the ride compliant.  That's just me and I understand that others are willing to put up with a slightly harsher ride for maximum handling, etc.

Later, Jim

[69CHARGERMD]

Jim, where are you getting all your parts,  sounds like your doing the same thing I'm looking for. 
Do you have a list of everything your getting, ? I have to figure out everything I need, but plan on replacing everything,,,,plus better torsion bars, rear leafs, and sway bars

Thanks

Doug

 

[69CHARGERMD]

Chryco, is this the poly kit you used ?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ens-5-18105g/overview/make/dodge

[anlauto]

I'm with Jim...I always MOOG parts unless my customers want something different.

[69CHARGERMD]

Do you guys think it would be ok to re use all my front suspension parts, and just replace the bushings, rubber, etc ?
Or should it be all replaced ?
I have not taken it apart yet, so not sure what I'm in for

[anlauto]

Whenever I restore a front end for a customer..I do EVERYTHING.....There's no sense having two new ball joints, two old, or new outer tie rods but used inners....Even if they "look" good, I still replace everything.

[Road_Runner]

Jim, where are you getting all your parts,  sounds like your doing the same thing I'm looking for. 
Do you have a list of everything your getting, ? I have to figure out everything I need, but plan on replacing everything,,,,plus better torsion bars, rear leafs, and sway bars

Thanks

Doug

 

I totally agree with Chryco's recommendation of Rockauto as a great place to try.  I've bought numerous parts through them and am very pleased with their service.  Summit Racing also carries these parts so that's a consideration, too.   Plus, Summit offers free shipping and Rockauto doesn't so be sure to figure that into your costs.  As far as a parts list you only have to look to the top of this Suspension section to the permanent "Moog Front End Kit Part Numbers".  I've cut & pasted the list below, but I'd recommend reading through it as there's a lot of good information there:

Here are the part numbers I came up with for an order with Rock Auto for everyones reference.
This "kit" includes idler and pitman arms, the UCA cam adjusters, and bumpers for $408.

ITEM                                                                    PRICE_CORE_QTY_ EXT PRICE

MOOG K7041   Idler Arm                                           $ 35.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 35.79
MOOG K7076   Pitman Arm                                        $ 51.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 51.79
MOOG ES319S Tie Rod End Adjusting Sleeve  (9/16")     $ 13.77 $ 0.00 2 $ 27.54
MOOG K783     Ball Joint                                           $ 38.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 38.79
MOOG K772     Ball Joint                                           $ 21.79 $ 0.00 2 $ 43.58
MOOG K5255   Stabilizer Bar Link                                $ 5.64 $ 0.00 2 $ 11.28
MOOG K408     Control Arm Bushing Kit                        $ 23.99 $ 0.00 1 $ 23.99
MOOG ES401L  Tie Rod End (9/16")                            $ 15.40 $ 0.00 2 $ 30.80
MOOG K791     Control Arm Bushing                            $ 10.56 $ 0.00 2 $ 21.12
MOOG K781     Ball Joint                                           $ 38.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 38.79
MOOG K7016A Strut Rod Bushing Kit                            $ 12.98 $ 0.00 1 $ 12.98
MOOG K5241   Stabilizer Bar Bushing Kit                       $ 5.79 $ 0.00 1 $ 5.79
MOOG ES401R Tie Rod End  (9/16")                             $ 15.40 $ 0.00 2 $ 30.80
MOOG K8243A Cam Bolt Kit                                        $ 13.75 $ 0.00 1 $ 13.75
MOOG K3180 Control Arm Bumper                                $ 5.94 $ 0.00 2 $ 11.88
MOOG K7293 Control Arm Bumper                                 $ 4.70 $ 0.00 2 $ 9.40


Later, Jim

[Road_Runner]

As far as sway bars & springs I went kind of a middle road, stiffer but hopefully not too stiff.  Again, a lot of folks recommend larger T Bars than I chose, but I wanted to err on the side of keeping the ride from getting noticeably harsh vs. maximum handling.  I went with .96 Mopar Performance torsion bars, ESPO xhd replacement rear springs (www.springsnthings.com) and an original 3/4" rear sway bar (picked up on Ebay but Firm Feel sells a similar frame mounted bar).  I have both an OEM 15/16 front sway bar and an aftermarket Hellwig 1 1/8" bar, but I'll probably try the larger bar first as there seems to be universal agreement that these cars really need a larger front sway bar.  I still need to pick up a set of the E Body specific Bilstein shocks that are said to give the best ride on these cars (Firm Feel sells these among others).  They're a little more expensive than some of the other choices, but I want to enjoy driving my car so a nice & firm ride is worth a few extra dollars.  I wish I could tell you how great my choices are, but I want to repair my driver's floor board & trunk pan before I start working on the suspension.  I'm also welding in frame connectors on the car.  I chose the U.S. Bars as they look orginal to the car once installed and covered with undercoating which I plan to do.  This will help keep the stiffer springs & bars from twisting the body.  My Barracuda has ZERO rattles which is unbelievable for a car this old and all I can figure is that it was 1) female owned all its life until the year before I bought it from the 2nd owner, 2) it came with soft springs being a 318 car and no sway bars from the factory and 3) the 318 2 bbl in it isn't capable of putting any twist in the body.  So I consider the frame connectors insurance that my upgrades won't overwhelm the facitory unibody:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MOPAR-Weld-in-Frame-Connectors-E-Body-Plymouth-Cuda-70-74-Barracuda-USCarTool-/300879168857?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3ACuda&hash=item460dcbc559&vxp=mtr#ht_1799wt_880

Hopefully, I'll be getting on this starting next year so I should have some updates to share when I do.

Later, Jim

[dodj]

Another thing to consider is the Moog offset upper control arm bushings. They will allow you to put a better alignment on your car. More caster.

[69CHARGERMD]

Jim,
THANK YOU for taking the time to respond.  Very helpful info. That list is what I needed to see. I have never re-done the front suspension before. I have only replaced torsion bars, and a ball joint here and there, so I am a bit intimidated by replacing the entire front suspension and need to figure it out. I think i'll go thru rock auto, the name keeps coming up as a good resource.

Sounds like I could get front and rear sway bars, shocks, and torsion bars from Firm Feel ?( I will have to research this a bit and figure out what sizes I need )

For the rear, I'm putting a bigger tire out back so......
I plan on getting ESPO springs ( likely 1" over stock )
B body Dana from Dr Diff

Mine is also a 318 car, little ol lady car, but also plan on putting frame connectors in to stiffen it up, I have them on my 69 Charger, and it was a big improvement.

Dodj, thanks, I will look into this.....

anlauto, thanks, that's what I thought I was going to hear, like you mention, probably smarter to replace everything while I have it apart, thank you.

Thanks to everyones responses, VERY helpful and appreciated, this is a great site, lots of helpful people....

Doug

[ChallengerHK]

Concur with Rock Auto and Moog for a stock-style rebuild. Don't forget the Moog offset UCA bushing option.

[Bullitt-]

I notice the pitman arm is the '73-up number K7076 won't fit 70-71, smaller shaft