My UR dash pad Installation....

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Offline JayBee

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #15 on: May 05, 2014 - 08:29:20 AM »
Looks like Ultimate Rides made some manufacturing improvements over the years.
The UR one I installed about 5 years ago looks more like filmsurgeon's, and actually worse in some spots.
John

1970 Barracuda convertible
2014 Toyota Avalon




Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #16 on: May 05, 2014 - 02:23:00 PM »
Filmsurgeon If you need a blank dash frame and are near LAX ping me, I have one stripped to bear Metal if you can use it for a core. I was going to when I ordered mine from Roseville but shipping pretty much made it a wash. I haven't installed mine but it looks good from the exterior, but the interior cuts and wrapping didn't make my inner perfectionist feel great (but it cost 400 less). It looks like they eyeball the cuts with a lot of of overlap, when I would have thought it would have been a precut pattern. Also if you call JD they may offer you a cash discount and you can you drop it off to save a bit more... I think your SoCal correct?

PM sent.  Thanks for your reply.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #17 on: May 05, 2014 - 02:40:34 PM »
Just spoke with JustDashes and asked what the cost would be for them to do a black 3-speaker non-A/C dash pad for me if I bring them a good condition, bare metal steel core.  $1,250  :faint:  I was told that: because it's a bare metal core they would be starting with, they tack on an additional $150.  Forget that.  Also, he told me that if I wanted to buy a '70 Challenger complete/finished steel core dash pad, the core charge is not $400, but $500 only because it's a '70 Challenger.   :swear: :stomp: :pullinghair: :banghead:
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline CudamanTom

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #18 on: May 05, 2014 - 03:09:57 PM »
Just spoke with JustDashes and asked what the cost would be for them to do a black 3-speaker non-A/C dash pad for me if I bring them a good condition, bare metal steel core.  $1,250  :faint:  I was told that: because it's a bare metal core they would be starting with, they tack on an additional $150.  Forget that.  Also, he told me that if I wanted to buy a '70 Challenger complete/finished steel core dash pad, the core charge is not $400, but $500 only because it's a '70 Challenger.   :swear: :stomp: :pullinghair: :banghead:
Dang, that's expensive . :22yikes:

Maybe they should change their name to "Just $$$$$"
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


Because I like it fast!!!

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #19 on: May 05, 2014 - 06:27:42 PM »
Strange :clueless:  , but interesting is that Dash Pad Pros and Ultimate Rides (aka: Dash Masters) are both located in El Paso, TX.  Possibly UR has recently started operating under a second/new/different business name because of ALL the trouble customers have had dealing with them (i.e. Alan Foxx) directly.  I know they used to have an "F" rating on BBB, but that has recently changed to a "B" rating somehow.  Been reading a lot of interesting horror stories on various Mopar forum sites regarding nightmares in dealing directly with Alan.  Still trying to decide which way to go.
« Last Edit: May 05, 2014 - 06:36:38 PM by filmsurgeon »
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline AARuFAST

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #20 on: May 05, 2014 - 11:00:40 PM »
WoW can't believe the cost........JustDashes resurfaced my AAR dash back in 2006. The grain matched perfect and fits perfect.  Shipping both ways about 96.00. Dash resurfaced 750.00
1970 AAR Cuda
1970 Gran Coupe Ragtop. 1 of 66
Gran Cpe Convertible 1 yr only.

" I Want to Ride "

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it was the most boring
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Offline flagcraig

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #21 on: May 12, 2014 - 06:28:38 PM »
Glad it worked for you, my AC pad is very poor IMO.
The vinyl is already bubbled around the extremely poor fitting vent cut outs.

Need to send Roseville another email, never replied to my first.

They must be really busy because I've called Roseville in the last couple weeks and they don't answer the phone and I also left a message and no call back.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #22 on: May 12, 2014 - 08:23:07 PM »
Need to send Roseville another email, never replied to my first.

They must be really busy because I've called Roseville in the last couple weeks and they don't answer the phone and I also left a message and no call back.

Yup.  Still waiting to hear back from Dave on the 2 emails I've sent him regarding the UR dash pad.  Maybe I should go somewhere else.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline anlauto

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #23 on: May 12, 2014 - 08:25:48 PM »
That's odd...David is usually right on the ball.....I hope nothing is wrong :clueless:
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #24 on: May 14, 2014 - 09:37:12 PM »
Thought I'd share this. I decided to request a quote from Just Dashes using their website, rather than speaking to someone on the phone. I wanted my request and their response in writing.

http://justdashes.com/Map.htm

My Quote Request:

Hello,
I'd like to get a quote to have you do a 1970 Dodge Challenger dash
pad (black, 3-speaker, Non-A/C).
I currently have several E-body dash pad cores, and would prefer to
bring you the one that offers me the best price for my need. I live in
SoCal, so I can drop the core off at your shop in Van Nuys.
- What is the price for what I need?
- What (if any) are the additional charges if I bring you a 'Cuda dash core?
- What (if any) are the additional charges if I bring you a later year
model core
- What (if any) are the additional charges if I bring you a dash core
that is NON-3 speaker (single speaker), and/or came out of an A/C car?
- Do you require a rust-free dash core?
- What is your process? Do you remove ALL the old foam, or do you
simply fill the deteriorated/damaged foam areas with new foam?
- Would a new (chrome) '70 Challenger script emblem be attached to the
dash pad, and be included in the price you give me?
- How is the emblem attached to the dash pad; is it glued on, or is
the emblem pinned with retainers on the back-side?
- Do you provide provisions for the dash VIN tag to be riveted on, or
do I need to bring you the VIN tag from the car?
- Is there a guarantee on the workmanship? I need this to fit
(perfectly) and as well as the dash pads fit from the factory.
- How close will the vinyl's grain pattern be to the grain pattern of
the vinyl on an original dash pad?
- Regarding the outboard/side speaker grills: I have read on some of
the Mopar forum sites (and message-boards) that only the B/L B/R
speaker grills will work on your E-body dash pads. I have both B/L-R
and J/L-R grills. Will the J/L-R (’70 Challenger ONLY) grills fit
properly on the '70 Challenger dash pad you do for me?
- Do you buy dash cores? I have several E-body cores ranging in
condition (from bare metal steel to complete), and from both 'Cuda and
Challenger, 1970-74, A/C & Non-A/C, 3-speaker & single (center)
speaker.
I look forward to your response.
Best regards

----------------------------------------------------------------------------
Just Dashes response:

Hi,
You certainly were thorough in your inquiry. I'll try to help you out as much as I can. First, I will say that we don't restore cores from other cars to go into a 1970 Dodge Challenger. For that car, we do a complete restoration. You will need to send the original dash into us
and we will do a complete reconstruction off your original dash frame. We strip off most of the old foam during the repair, but we leave what we need for the general profile of the dash pad. We work off of your original part to ensure that when you go to put it back in your car, you know it's going to fit. We do require the dash core you send in to be rust-free for the best results. IF you'd like your Challenger emblem re-chromed, we provide that service at an additional cost. Your VIN tag should come with the dash and we will remove and re-install it here at our shop. As for the fit of the dash, it should fit just like new. We stand by our product, and if you experience any problems, or have issues with the final product, we will work to fix the issue to the best of our ability. That being said, we do make a quality product that will look like new when we're through with it. The vinyl we use
on the dash is the same style used in the factory. However, your other interior parts may have faded, so we do recommend getting all of your
corresponding parts restored simultaneously for the most seamless transformation. We recommend using all of the original parts for your restoration, so please send in your original speakers for the restoration process. Our current turnaround time is about 10 weeks from the time we receive your part.
Send to: Just Dashes
5941 Lemona Ave.
Van Nuys, CA 91411

Cost:
$1,100 - Dash Pad (includes just dashes repro center speaker grill)
$150 - Foam Work (if the dash is bare metal)
$600-800 - Dash Carrier (Big Metal Frame Under Dash)
~$1250 - Instrument Cluster
~$450 -Bezel
$190 - Front and Rear Door Panels (each)
$450 - Rear Convertible Panels (each)
$150 - Weather Trim (for panels)
$120 - Kick Panels (each)
$150 - Seat Backs (each)
$500 - Black Vinyl Bezel (send control panel)
$350 - Hydrodipped Pattern ($200 to match control panel)
$150 - Black Texture Spray ($100 to match control)
+ Shipping

This price includes that restoration of the dash pad in black. For any
other color, you can add $100-$150 depending on the color. I've
attached an order form for your convenience. Let me know if you need
anything else.

Thanks,
Jason
Just Dashes, Inc.
(800) 247-3274
Just Dashes.com

----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

FWIW - I just ordered a '70 Challenger dash pad (3-speaker, Non-A/C from Roseville). It's an original steel core, that has had new foam and vinyl applied. "Remanufactured" by Ultimate Rides (aka: Dash Masters; aka: Dash Pad Pros). Keeping my fingers crossed that it fits to my satisfaction and there are no major quality issues. I'll post again (with photos) after I've mounted it to the dash frame, and installed all the trim, bezels, etc. Thanks for the replies.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #25 on: May 24, 2014 - 07:40:32 PM »
Bad news to report.  I got my UR dash pad this past Wed, and did a test fit today.  There are a couple of small cosmetic imperfections in the vinyl, but nothing so bad that I couldn't live with it.  However, there is a SERIOUS issue with the passenger side (see photo).  FYI - All (11) threaded studs are through the mounting holes of the dash frame, but I had to pull on the passenger side of the pad in order to get it down to meet with the frame.  In doing this, the vinyl buckles severely, and the pad still doesn't match up to the contour of the frame.  I know (without a doubt) that my frame is NOT bent.  Besides, the passenger side is braced pretty well, so I can't possibly understand how it could even get bent, unless it was in a crash, then the damage would be quite obvious.  I think that the steel core of this particular pad was bent prior to the work that UR did.  Also, not that it's that big of a deal breaker, but it's quite evident that the core that was used for this dash was NOT an original 3-speaker dash.  I can see the Sharpie lines that were drawn to make the cut-outs, and the cuts are definitely fresh.  No doubt I need to send this back and wait for a replacement.  Any and all feedback is greatly appreciated.  Thanks.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline 73RallyeChallenger

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #26 on: May 24, 2014 - 08:50:04 PM »
Sorry to hear about your crappy UR pad. I didn't have problems like yours, I had other problems like not being able to install my rallye light bar, and had to cut 1/2" of the steel back in order for it to fit. Send it back and get another. Did you get it from Dave at Roseville? He checks each one before he ships out. I'm very relieved to have gone with JD for my second (maybe last?) e-body dash pad. It is nearly perfect except for the puffiness around the vin tag.
73 Triple Black 340 Challenger
70 Plum Crazy T/A Challenger - work in progress (AGAR)

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #27 on: May 25, 2014 - 02:59:54 PM »
Sorry to hear about your crappy UR pad. I didn't have problems like yours, I had other problems like not being able to install my rallye light bar, and had to cut 1/2" of the steel back in order for it to fit. Send it back and get another. Did you get it from Dave at Roseville? He checks each one before he ships out. I'm very relieved to have gone with JD for my second (maybe last?) e-body dash pad. It is nearly perfect except for the puffiness around the vin tag.

Yes, I did buy from Dave.  He told me that he checks each pad before it ships, but honestly I don't believe he could've observed that the passenger side was out of shape (bent) before UR did their work.  Again, out-of-the-box, the pad looked pretty nice, except for a couple of cosmetic flaws in the vinyl that I could've lived with.  I am still considering the JD route, especially given the results of this first UR pad.  I have heard and read reviews that the JD pads are "too puffy", but I may have to settle for that.  Unfortunately, I bought the last '70 Challenger, non-A/C, 3-speaker dash pad that Dave had.  Last time I checked the Roseville site (about 2 weeks ago), Dave had ZERO dash pads for sale.  So, I doubt there will be a replacement UR pad available anytime soon.  BTW - the ONLY way I could get all (11) threaded studs to fit through the dash frame mounting holes was to pull outward on the passenger side of the pad, but the result of doing that causes the vinyl to buckle.  When the dash pad is unmounted, there is NO buckle in the vinyl.  Thanks for the feedback.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #28 on: May 25, 2014 - 03:39:05 PM »
How about enlarging or elongation the holes that the 11 studs fit through? Would just doing that improve the fit?
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: My UR dash pad Installation....
« Reply #29 on: May 25, 2014 - 03:51:20 PM »
How about enlarging or elongation the holes that the 11 studs fit through? Would just doing that improve the fit?

Unfortunately not.  The passenger side of the pad still needs to be pulled out to fit side-to-side (regardless of the pad studs/frame mounting holes).  The steel core is obviously distorted, and/or bent on the passenger side.  Even the slightest pulling on the passenger side results in the vinyl buckling.  Here is a photo of someone else's UR pad with a similar problem.  This was posted on the Moparts message board.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.