I looked and it didnt appear to be an open port. There are two screw holes to mount the pod but I used the two screws in them.
Anyways, just tried starting it up and it ran, when I gave it half throttle, but didnt want to climb above about 2000 rpm, again like it was suffocating, but it did run smoother this time. Still wouldnt idle, and still blowing smoke, but running far better than the other day.
I was originally running 80 jets, and now using 66s. Much closer to stock, but still blowing smoke, and not running
Maybe go back and try 80s??
Heres a description of my build from the prior owner:
Tom:
'74 440 block + .030 stock 3.75 stroke (446")
'66 516 casting closed chamber heads
Stock cast crank
Stock LY rods
Closed chamber heads
Basic machine work was done on lower end by someone else, we bought it used. But, it has TRW forged flat tops, Federal bearings, stock replacement rings, etc. A basic rebuild with heavy pistons. Heads have 2.08/1.74 stainless performance valves. I pocket ported and cleaned them up, and gasket matched them, ending up around 245cfm @.550 intake, 175cfm @ .550 exh. Spring seats and guides cut for springs. They were also milled to get a true final compression of 10.5:1. Intake is a factory '70 iron 6bbl that was also port matched and cleaned up as best as I could reach, no plenum mods. Carbs are factory '70 six pack 4sp vacuum carbs, jetted and tuned. Cam is Crane hydraulic H-302-2, 302°, .504 lift, 232° @ .050 intake, 312°, .528 lift, 242° @ .050 exh. It runs 1 7/8 Hooker headers and MSD 6AL with a Pro Billet dist.
Chassis dyno results: 378hp @ 5300 470tq @ 3500
It's got 83° of overlap and will have a rough idle and the plugs may get fouled if it's idled a lot or driven lightly all the time. Last I checked it was around there too (170-175 IIRC). The reason the cylinder pressure is what it is is because the intake valve closing event officially seals the cylinder as the piston is moving up the bore. The larger the cam, the later that intake valve closes, so the lower the effective cylinder pressure will be with the same given mechanical static ratio.
I have a couple hints: Run the highest octane you can get (unleaded 93/94) and don't keep snapping the throttle at idle or pumping too much while it's warming up. It's never going to idle perfectly or smell clean at idle but it's not bad and you could always set it a little faster idle speed to help that. You can also try going with a higher heat range plug too.""
