Six Pack issues and rebuilding

[tommyg29]

Is that a false economy Tommy? Having filled your engine once, do you really want to give that float bowl a second chance? Why not take advantage of the gentleman's offer of his non-dented used one and sleep better at night? Just my  and the desire to not see you wreck an expensive engine. 

Jimynick,
Your 2 cents are worth at least two hundred bucks right about now. 

And I did touch up what I thought was a crack with JB Weld just as you suggest Chryco. Waited a day for it to set up nice and hard, then put the bowl on next night, and after chasing a couple fuel line leaks, that same carb started pouring fuel down the throat. Took me at least 30 seconds to shut it off, and in the meantime it sounded like a small waterfall. I have NOT yet cranked on the motor. Only turned on the electric fuel pump. It is pushing about 6 pounds pressure.
Hopefully I didnt flood any cylinders but I might have.

Here is the spot I think its leaking through now, and not really easily repairable. Not worth messing with anyway.

[tommyg29]

Received the replacement float bowl from David yesterday, and got it all running tonight.
Now for the tuning. Running about 15 inches vacuum at 900 rpm. Timing at about 14 degrees.
The jetting is 66 center and 80s outer, with I think a 7.5 PV.
I noticed playing with the throttle shaft idle screw doesnt seem to do much. I have to force the shaft to get the idle down below 1000 rpm. Maybe the shaft is worn or still gunked up.
Twisting the main idle screws back and forth up to 1/8 turn each didnt do much of anything to my 15inch vacuum.
Still seems to be running rich, based on my nose.
BTW the secondaries are still disconnected.
And on another note, the glass sight plugs arent a big help IMO. I had two of them break off. I think because I hand tightened them too hard? Had to pull bowls in order to push out the threaded part and any shards inside the bowl. 

[HP_Cuda]

If your secondaries are disconnected and you believe its still rich you can jet down. As for your PV you are spot on for your vacuum reading.

Btw, what color is your accelerator pump cam?

Bryan

[Chryco Psycho]

So you may have an air leak or the outboard carbs are open a little so the idle will not drop down , 15" of vacuum is good but what will it drop to in gear ?

[mopar jack]

Do you have adjustable metering plate kits in the front and rear carbs? I found that the AED jet plates can interfere with the floats and that you may have to file a spot in the float to clear the jets. This could cause your problem with flooding.

[tommyg29]

My accelerator pump cam is either black or dark green. I cant tell since its pretty hard to see with the carb mounted.
My secondaries have promax metering plates and I checked for clearance before I reinstalled the bowls since it did look close but there are at least a few mm's clearance.

Chryco, how can I tell if the secondaries are a little open?
 
I noticed my fuel pressure is at 7 psi, and when I tried to dial it down to 6, cranking the regulator up to 3 full turns back did nothing. Still at 7 psi, if not a fraction more. 
Turning CW here, and CCW there, it seems like no matter what I do on the carb, nothing seems to have any effect on anything. Either my car is a total dolt, or I am, or both.
At least its running, but still rich, and seemingly no different than before. Not that I was expecting a different car, but I was expecting to be able to dial things in a little better.
A big clue might be I am STILL suffering run-on (dieseling). Could this be because my throttle blades are not closing completely? Remember, now at about 1000 rpm idle, I can force the main throttle a LITTLE bit more to drop the idle to about 600-700 rpm, so I know its not closing all the way on its own.

[jhaag]

yes it is dieseling because the throttle blades are open too far. Your six pak should probably have a solenoid on it to prevent this. my 340 t/a did. not sure about the outboard carbs on your set up, but check this. holley four barrels have adjustable secondary idle stops. your outboard carbs may have them as well. look on the passenger side where the vacuum diaphragm attaches to the throttle shaft. There is a set screw only adjustable from the bottom of the carb. (have to take them off and adjust with a small screwdriver) any way given all the issues you have had with someone before you screwing with these carbs, maybe someone has messed there as well.  As for your pressure regulator, I'd say time to replace it. It obviously is not working. 

[cudabob496]

Received the replacement float bowl from David yesterday, and got it all running tonight.
Now for the tuning. Running about 15 inches vacuum at 900 rpm. Timing at about 14 degrees.
The jetting is 66 center and 80s outer, with I think a 7.5 PV.
I noticed playing with the throttle shaft idle screw doesnt seem to do much. I have to force the shaft to get the idle down below 1000 rpm. Maybe the shaft is worn or still gunked up.
Twisting the main idle screws back and forth up to 1/8 turn each didnt do much of anything to my 15inch vacuum.
Still seems to be running rich, based on my nose.
BTW the secondaries are still disconnected.
And on another note, the glass sight plugs arent a big help IMO. I had two of them break off. I think because I hand tightened them too hard? Had to pull bowls in order to push out the threaded part and any shards inside the bowl. 

Do you have an AFR meter? Seems it would be very helpful, especially for a 6-pack!

[tommyg29]

Pretty sure the accelerator pump cam is dark green. Going to try to work on getting the main throttle shaft to close further, and dont want to use an idle solenoid if I dont have to. Frankly if the main carb isnt working properly and cant be adjusted to run properly for whatever reason I might as well bite the bullet and just buy a new center replacement.
Also will look closer at the secondary throttle shafts.

Dont want to add an afr gauge either. Welding bungs and extra $$ shouldnt be necessary and though they might make the job easier I just dont want to go there. Rather spend $500 on a new carb than $200 on bungs and a gauge.
Dont get me wrong, I appreciate the suggestions. 

One more thing I remembered. The prior owner had kept small copper wires stuffed down the two outer (larger) idle air bleeds. I removed those years ago.

[cudabob496]

Pretty sure the accelerator pump cam is dark green. Going to try to work on getting the main throttle shaft to close further, and dont want to use an idle solenoid if I dont have to. Frankly if the main carb isnt working properly and cant be adjusted to run properly for whatever reason I might as well bite the bullet and just buy a new center replacement.
Also will look closer at the secondary throttle shafts.

Dont want to add an afr gauge either. Welding bungs and extra $$ shouldnt be necessary and though they might make the job easier I just dont want to go there. Rather spend $500 on a new carb than $200 on bungs and a gauge.
Dont get me wrong, I appreciate the suggestions. 

understand, but no welding is necessary. they have a clamp with a bung on it that attaches to your exhaust pipe.  Without an AFR meter, a person can be tuning a carb for a long time. Of course, I'm sure some like the challenge.

[Chryco Psycho]

If the linkage is connected it can hold the throttle open , there may also be screws from underneath to hold the throttle open on the outboard carbs so flip the carb & look for a set screw .
Adding wires into the bleeds can really help , with lower vacuum it can enhance the pull of fuel into the airstream , I have solved many tuning issues doing this

[tman]

I can only say that this is good reading.

[HP_Cuda]

You would think that the larger air bleeds on the outside idle bleeds would make it run leaner than richer.

This makes me think since the prior guy modified the carb (hack) to try and get it to run correctly (richer) that I personally would tear down the carbs to find out what's in them. It seems to me that your 6 pack carb setup is definitely setup to run a lot more fuel than your motor can burn efficiently.

Here's an article that Cryco can get behind because it's written by Quickfuel:
http://www.quickfueltechnology.com/technical-info/carb-class-air-bleed-basics

[tommyg29]

Here is what the carb looked like 5 years ago. Those copper wires leaned things a little, and now it must be richer.
Just wish they were replaceable with different sizes.

[tommyg29]

At this point this is where Im at:

1- its still smells like its running rich
2- still have run-on for a couple seconds after shutting it off
3- should I have removed and cleaned the throttle shafts? Are they lubed in any way?
4- maybe I need an idle solenoid to help but they have issues too and I dont want one more thing to act as a crutch for an old carburetor.
5- maybe Im wasting time on a carb that should just be retired?
 

and PS
the clear sight plugs are definitely for temporary use only. Mine started fogging up after only a few days.
And only need to screw them in hand tight. Easy does it, let the rubber gasket do the work. The glass threads will break off.