Author Topic: Testing Dash  (Read 2646 times)

Offline burdar

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #15 on: February 25, 2014 - 09:05:29 AM »
I was thinking about this last night.  Here is my suggestion.....

If you have a helper, the dash is sooo easy to install in the car.  I would just set the dash on the two kick panel bolts, rotate it up into place and start one of the lower windshield bolts.  Then you can just quickly hook up the wiring while it's already installed in the car.  Do your check to make sure everything works....if something is wrong, all you have to do is take one small bolt out.  If everything is good, go ahead and finish the dash installation. :2cents:




Offline blown motor

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #16 on: February 25, 2014 - 11:45:41 AM »
I can hear it now. Cathy, can you help me  :roflsmiley:
In search of the eternal buzz!

Offline dodj

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #17 on: February 27, 2014 - 09:35:56 PM »
A little off topic, but battery charger related. Charging your battery in place in the car when you have an ignition like MSD is not a good idea. The charger can toast the msd/mallory etc module.
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #18 on: February 27, 2014 - 09:57:50 PM »
A little off topic, but battery charger related. Charging your battery in place in the car when you have an ignition like MSD is not a good idea. The charger can toast the msd/mallory etc module.

Even on a 2 amp trickle? Or just on 10 amp or boost?  Either way, good to know.  :2thumbs:
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline dodj

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #19 on: February 27, 2014 - 11:06:04 PM »
Actually, not sure about the trickle charge, but definitely on the 10a and above.
Scott
1973 Challenger  440 4 spd 
2007.5 3500 6.7 Cummins Diesel, Anarchy tuned.
Good friends don't let friends do stupid things. ........alone.

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #20 on: March 05, 2014 - 09:09:03 PM »
Andy,
I had my full dash powered up and also tested the Stereo and 3 speaker dash. I used a spare ignition and turn signal switches and also had my tail light harness plugged in to test the brake lights. A lot easier to get everything working before you put it in the car. I used a 2 x 10 and had some 2 x 4s screwed to it to hold the side mounts, then one on the back to strap it to.
« Last Edit: March 05, 2014 - 09:18:22 PM by ShelbyDogg »
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #21 on: March 05, 2014 - 10:47:34 PM »
Thanks for the advice Rob. I think I am just going to set the dash in place in the car and do the testing there. Easy
enough to pull it back out if there is a problem I guess. No interior or glass in the car to contend with. I'm still
modifying my gauge housing to fit an aftermarket volt meter and bypassing the ammeter. Soon as that's done, in goes
 the dash for testing.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline burdar

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #22 on: March 06, 2014 - 08:57:22 AM »
Are you going to cut the ends off the two AMP gauge wires and solder them together?  I'm trying to figure out how to do mine.  I know the Mad Electrical site says to solder them but I'm thinking about bolting them together.  I've got a third wire to deal with.(convert top power wire)  I think I'm going to buy a small $5 power distribution block that I can mount solidly and bolt the three wires to it.

Offline ShelbyDogg

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #23 on: March 06, 2014 - 06:59:16 PM »
Just run the big wire from the alternator to the battery an leave your amp gauge wires where they are. The gauge still reads a little but will never deflect much.

For my power top and power windows, I used a relay from a late model convertible and power top motor with a single winding instead of dual windings used back then. I ran a big wire to a fuse block in my trunk then power my tope and rear windows from it. The only power switched through my top switch is to switch the relay contacts. See my Pace Car thread for a pic of the relay, pump motor and fuse block.

Andy, You can't get to the back of the gauges easily once mounted in the car. Easy to hook a battery up while on a bench.
Rob

3 E-bodies, Megasquirt-1v3.0, Edelbrock Pro-Flo-1, Holley C950, FAST EZ-EFI; say no to carbs...yes to throttle bodies

My Pace Car restoration thread:
http://www.cuda-challenger.com/cc/index.php?topic=44869.0


Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #24 on: March 06, 2014 - 09:37:53 PM »
Are you going to cut the ends off the two AMP gauge wires and solder them together?  I'm trying to figure out how to do mine.  I know the Mad Electrical site says to solder them but I'm thinking about bolting them together.  I've got a third wire to deal with.(convert top power wire)  I think I'm going to buy a small $5 power distribution block that I can mount solidly and bolt the three wires to it.

I'm still debating about how to attach the amp wires. I was going to bolt them together in case I wanted to go back to the amp gauge. But since I had to modify the gauge housing, I can't just put the old gauge back in anyway. I think
the reasoning behind the Mad site and crimping and soldering is that you would get a better connection
that won't come loose and has more surface area for passing the current. Good idea about the distribution block too.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline 72cudamaan

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #25 on: March 06, 2014 - 09:40:04 PM »
Andy, You can't get to the back of the gauges easily once mounted in the car. Easy to hook a battery up while on a bench.

Thanks, duly noted.
If I cant fix it, it's broke
 
Andy  (phukker whither)

Offline burdar

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Re: Testing Dash
« Reply #26 on: March 07, 2014 - 08:40:59 AM »
I completely did away with my AMP gauge so I have nothing to connect them to at the moment.  I don't want to cut up the harness so I'm just going to bolt them to a distribution block and be done with it.