Painless wiring harness..

[Morris'_Mopars]

I'm building a 1971 challenger for hard core street/strip action. I have found that painless makes a 12 circuit harness for Mopars. Has anyone used this wiring harness? I'm thinking it might be the way to go for my Chllenger.

[calicuda70]

Four40cuda

                I did it in my challenger I'm so so on it didn't really change anything, the front turn signal area is the hardest to wire up since there's a cluster f of wiring but there customer service was really good, and somewhat helpful. Im just not sure if it was worth the 500 I spent when it 1st came out.

[73EStroker]

CP has said before that for Painless you swap "less" for "ful". I believe staying with stock harnesses is the answer and so much easier.

[Devil]

I did the painless setup as well.  It is a pain, but worth it for all the modifications I have.  You need to transfer all the original ends over from the old harness to the new one.  Also it is a universal Mopar harness, so you gotta sleuth a few things out.

[moparmaster]

Those youtube videos make it look sooooo easy.

[Chryco Psycho]

Painless is just a name , it will take about 3 days if you are good at it to swap in a Painless harness , better for modified cars , M&H have replacement plug in harnesses .

[GreenFishie]

Well these posts sort of answer my question. Other than the name not being an accurate description ... and let's face it, there are very few relatively easy things in restoration ... is there a reason not to buy this product if you need to replace your internals anyway? Are there better brands to be had?

[Chryco Psycho]

It depends on your goals . for a restoration I would not use Painless , just plug I new harnesses from M&H , if you are doing a custom build & adding a lot of mods such as EFI anyway then maybe , Ron Francis & others also offer a base harness where you have to custom fit wire every single termination be it a light socket or switch or terminal at a gauge etc

[diyhemi.com]

I don't have a problem with painless. Each wire is individually labeled and easy to run. But then again I do a great deal of custom wiring and restomod cars. They are great for adding creature comforts, such as keyless entry, power windows, improved stereos, remote trunk latches, power antennas, electronic fuel systems etc etc.

For all original restorations, go M&H. Otherwise, painless or American auto wire is great!


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[Chryco Psycho]

 

[Morris'_Mopars]

In my challenger I will run headlights,wipers,alt,horn and all the stock engine stuff. I will have aftermarket fuel pumps,fuel cell,speedo and gauges. Air shifter,trans brake,MSD ignition and possibly 250 shot of NOS. I figure with the extra stuff I will be wiring I might look into a aftermarket set up like painless..

[Tonker1]

The painless harness which I only recently finished installing on my Challenger was the first car wiring that I had ever worked on. It took quite a bit longer then planned to install, but I'm glad that I did it. My wiring knowledge has drastically improved and wiring in accessories is now a breeze, especially considering the Painless Performance wiring harness includes trigger wires for most common after market electricals.

Surprisingly though, you will have to ad a relay for the after market fuel pump as there is no wire provided.

I will have aftermarket fuel pumps,fuel cell,speedo and gauges. Air shifter,trans brake,MSD ignition and possibly 250 shot of NOS. I figure with the extra stuff I will be wiring I might look into a aftermarket set up like painless..

I'd recommend looking though the back pages of the installation manual and seeing how many of those parts are listed as termination points for wires.

[Chryco Psycho]

Not nessisary really , I would get a small relay box from donor car at a wrecker , power the relay box from the start relay battery terminal & shunt power from the battery to the fuel pumps & MSD using the relays , the aftermarket gauges will not draw much power , you may need to upgrade the alt for more than 60 amps in which case you need to run a jumper from the alt output directly to the start relay to bypass the ammeter . I did this on a Roadrunner when I was using 2 fuel pumps , 2 electric fans , EFI computer , electric water pump etc , + all the stock circuits & even with a 70 amp alt the battery would go dead while running

[GreenFishie]

Good to know ... I'm not going factory here and plan on going with an electronic trans behind an EFI supercharged 340. The wiring I pulled out of the 73 looks gnawed on and I wasn't sure what to go with as a replacement. Another duck down ... thanks guys.