Author Topic: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install (Read 11453 times)

74MOPAR · « **on:** April 13, 2005 - 05:17:05 PM »

I ordered a rear disk brake kit for my 'Cuda. Willwood brand from MagnumforceRacing. It needs the green type non-adjustable bearings.
Apparently I have the "mopar perf" press-on "green" bearings with an integral flange [ there is a 5 hole flange attached to the bearing ]
But I need the strange/moser non-adjustable greens with a snap ring configuration, in order to mount up the discs.

Question is- Do the strange type need a groove machined into the axles to accept the snap ring ??
Axle seals look OK, can I leave them in and re-use them ?

The car has new 3.55 gears and a new clutch type posi unit - want to say Dana Powr -Lok , but can't rmember at moment. Built by Randys ring + pinion.
We used the stock axles when replacing the "3rd member".
I forgot to count splines #.

Car has mild 360 HP motor + 833 4 spd.
with street use, some drag days, and road course fun in the cars future, should I just buy new axles from Strange ??
or stick with the stockers and have them adapted to the type of bearing I need ?

Thanks !

Autophile · « **Reply #1 on:** April 13, 2005 - 08:01:09 PM »

Quote from: 74MOPAR on April 13, 2005 - 05:17:05 PM

I ordered a rear disk brake kit for my 'Cuda. Willwood brand from MagnumforceRacing. It needs the green type non-adjustable bearings.
Apparently I have the "mopar perf" press-on "green" bearings with an integral flange [ there is a 5 hole flange attached to the bearing ]
But I need the strange/moser non-adjustable greens with a snap ring configuration, in order to mount up the discs.

Question is- Do the strange type need a groove machined into the axles to accept the snap ring ??
Axle seals look OK, can I leave them in and re-use them ?

The car has new 3.55 gears and a new clutch type posi unit - want to say Dana Powr -Lok , but can't rmember at moment. Built by Randys ring + pinion.
We used the stock axles when replacing the "3rd member".
I forgot to count splines #.

Car has mild 360 HP motor + 833 4 spd.
with street use, some drag days, and road course fun in the cars future, should I just buy new axles from Strange ??
or stick with the stockers and have them adapted to the type of bearing I need ?

Thanks !

I have Wilwood rear disks on my Cuda. I put them in last summer, so I'll try to remember the details for ya.

To answer your first question, the Moser snap ring bearings do not need a groove machined into the axles. Also, sure, you can resuse your seals if they look ok.

The better/more expensive axle option is to buy them from Strange, but you can make the bearings work on your stock axles.

Note: The only "adjustment" I had to do to my axles was, have one axle shortened about 0.050" because the snap ring bearings made my axles hit each other* inside the rear end.

*Actually, the axles squeezed against the spacer inside the rear end.

74MOPAR · « **Reply #2 on:** April 13, 2005 - 09:18:33 PM »

Autophile- thanks for the info.
Did you bend up your own new brake lines as well ? i ordered a "kit" from them but it is backordered....
Did you buy the bearings from the wilwood dealer ?
I wonder what the snap ring holds together?

Chryco Psycho · « **Reply #3 on:** April 14, 2005 - 01:09:13 AM »

I think the snap ring goes behind the 5 bolt plate instead of cutting into the outer race
& I agree no groove is needed in the axles

Autophile · « **Reply #4 on:** April 14, 2005 - 10:26:09 PM »

Quote from: 74MOPAR on April 13, 2005 - 09:18:33 PM

Autophile- thanks for the info.
Did you bend up your own new brake lines as well ? i ordered a "kit" from them but it is backordered....
Did you buy the bearings from the wilwood dealer ?
I wonder what the snap ring holds together?

Yes, I bent my own brake lines. I used 3/16" SS lines from Summit (Part # SUM-220236) and flared them with a Rigid 37� flaring tool (I used AN SS fittings).

I bought the bearings from either Jeg's or Summit, I've forgotten which.

Let me explain the purpose for the snap ring. The snap ring is used as a "stop" for locating the axles into the housing. It prevents the axles from going in too deep into the housing. The 5 hole flange is placed between the bearing and the outer hub (you have to momentarily remove the snap ring from the bearing to get the flange on the axle). The flange then locates the snap ring to the axle housing from the outside when you tighten the 5 hole flange down. It is actually an elegant solution for securing the axles in place.

BB72Chally · « **Reply #5 on:** April 16, 2005 - 09:46:07 AM »

74Mopar,

I just received my Wilwood rear disc kit and also have the Mopar green bearings (non-snap ring). Ordered the snap ring style from Summitt today. Would like to talk to you about the brake lines and emerg brake cables, your email address was returned. When you get a chance please email or call me, thanks.

Jeff
(843) 324-0694

74MOPAR · « **Reply #6 on:** April 16, 2005 - 03:09:05 PM »

BB72 - sent you an e-mail...

Autophile- I need to get the correct bearings and the instructions to look at. As I'm picturing two flanges in the kit. So, does the snap ring type bearing also have an inner race that needs to be pressed onto the axle shaft ? Does it need to be pressed at the same location as the previous race ? I'm trying to avoid having to cut the axles down as you did.

Autophile · « **Reply #7 on:** April 16, 2005 - 07:49:51 PM »

Quote from: 74MOPAR on April 16, 2005 - 03:09:05 PM

Autophile- I need to get the correct bearings and the instructions to look at. As I'm picturing two flanges in the kit. So, does the snap ring type bearing also have an inner race that needs to be pressed onto the axle shaft ? Does it need to be pressed at the same location as the previous race ? I'm trying to avoid having to cut the axles down as you did.

Yes, there is an inner race that needs to be pressed on the axle at the same place as the old one. I don't think there is any way to pre-emptively avoid having to cut an axle if it comes to that. But, any machine shop with a lathe can shorten one easily. It would probably cost $20 to do. Note, if the axles hit each other, i.e., you can bolt one axle flange down but not the other (the remaining one sticks out too far), you can have either axle shortened, it doesn't matter which one.

BB72Chally · « **Reply #8 on:** April 17, 2005 - 08:34:59 AM »

Autophile, 74Mopar;

I have the green snap ring bearings coming. Since I already have green Mopar bearings installed, I dont believe there will be an axle length issue (no button)(Dana, not Auburn posi).

My question stems from the emerg brake cables. I looked on Lokar's site but didnt see anything, did order their catalog though. What did you do for the emerg brake cables Autophile?

Will address the brake lines once everything is mocked up, will probably bend my own like Autophile did. Since there is a flex hose (stock) from the frame to the vent plug junction on the rear end, I dont see any reason not to be able to use rigid line all the way from the vent plug junction to the calipers, do you agree Autophile or did you do it differently?

Thanks
Jeff

Autophile · « **Reply #9 on:** April 17, 2005 - 03:00:15 PM »

I have retained my original e-brake cables, but I have not ordered the correct clevis ends (yet) to mate the cables to the e-brake attachments. It should be an easy deal to finish, but I have just been a bit lazy. I've got an auto trans, so it hasn't hindered me from taking pleasure drives in the meantime.

Regarding the lines, I used hard lines to a point on the axle housing, then transitioned to flex lines. I didn't like the idea of having to wrestle SS hardlines if/when I ever had to move the calipers, not to mention potentially creating weak spots in the brake lines by repeated bending. I used the same junction spot as stock, and replaced all soft lines with SS flex lines.

Tonker1 · « **Reply #10 on:** July 27, 2012 - 07:24:33 AM »

Hi,
I know its been a while on this post, maybe 7 years, but the information is relevant as the majority of you have installed Wilwood discs on your E body and now I'm trying to work out a Wilwood front and rear disc brake upgrade for my 73 Challenger!
What I'm trying to work out now is the bearings to use on my rear axles, the Wilwood's require a green type snap on as opposed to the stock green type press on, is okay to just change the axles and type of bearing?
Does any modification have to be done?
Probably should've asked this first, but what does green type actually mean?
What is the difference between the snap and press on green type bearing?
Do they both use the same style of bearing with a different mounting system?

Cheers

wiging19 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 04, 2012 - 02:14:29 AM »

Kapteenikosmos · « **Reply #12 on:** August 04, 2012 - 04:53:29 AM »

Quote from: Tonker1 on July 27, 2012 - 07:24:33 AM

Hi,
I know its been a while on this post, maybe 7 years, but the information is relevant as the majority of you have installed Wilwood discs on your E body and now I'm trying to work out a Wilwood front and rear disc brake upgrade for my 73 Challenger!
What I'm trying to work out now is the bearings to use on my rear axles, the Wilwood's require a green type snap on as opposed to the stock green type press on, is okay to just change the axles and type of bearing?
Does any modification have to be done?
Probably should've asked this first, but what does green type actually mean?
What is the difference between the snap and press on green type bearing?
Do they both use the same style of bearing with a different mounting system?

Cheers

Both bearings are press fit into the axle. The difference is, how the axle & bearing assembly is hold in the axle tube. So basically the non snap ring style bearing has the 5 hole flange, which holds the axle in place, integrated into the bearing. The snap ring style has separate flange which is secured into the bearing outer race with that snap ring.

Aracer · « **Reply #13 on:** August 18, 2012 - 02:04:26 AM »

I figured the flange type is stronger due to the thicker pieces, and for drum brakes. The snap ring is great for discs that have a rotor trapped by a caliper and were a Strange invention for racing.

Tonker1 · « **Reply #14 on:** August 22, 2012 - 08:44:23 AM »

Cheers, Kapteenikosmos

My new Wilwood front and rear discs kits+ Moser axles+ Moser green type bearing arrived last week and I'll install them in the next couple of months when a large junk of free time appears. If not, I'll have to get myself fired to create some spare time!

Author Topic: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install (Read 11453 times)

74MOPAR

"green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Autophile

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

74MOPAR

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Chryco Psycho

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Autophile

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

BB72Chally

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

74MOPAR

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Autophile

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

BB72Chally

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Autophile

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Tonker1

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

wiging19

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Kapteenikosmos

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Aracer

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install

Tonker1

Re: "green" axle bearings- mopar perf vs strange/moser install