What does it look like when your TQ Cvrtr fails? Need help!!!

[PlumCrazyChris]

Hi guys,

I finally got the new hemi running (correctly, but that's another story).  My problem is I didn't get enough fluid in my '91 A-500 trans before I tried to drive it.  It seemed to spin, but since my motor was running so bad (on 7 cylinders) with open headers, I couldn't really tell what was happening.  I did add some fluid and thought it was good and after several more trips around the block, realized it was still low.  All in all it was probably 5 quarts low when I first took it around the block. 

Now I have mufflers and the motor running well, but the trans won't shift out of 1st and seems to work, then spins as the rpms rise, then catches again down near idle (all OD and LU disconnected).   It smoothly goes in drive and reverse, neutral and park, but spins when I try to drive it.

It was good running trans, previously rebuilt when I got it in 07?  I put a shift kit in it, and left it sit dry until I tried to drive 4-5 months ago.  That's when I apparently didn't get the get the TQ Cvrtr filled the first time i tried to drive it, or the subsequent 4 times.

I pulled the pan today and found it very clean, no metal fillings nothing.  So my question is, is it possible that just my TQ Cvrtr is bad and the rest of my trans is good?  or do you think my whole trans is shot?   

I have another '94 A-518 I got a few years ago and was told it worked good, but is unknown to me.  It hasn't been drained.  Will the tq convrtrs swap between them?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  Terry if your out there, I'd love to get your opinion.

Thanks!
Chris

[PlumCrazyChris]

Anyone have any thoughts?   

[tactransman]

It sounds like you burnt the forward clutch driving it 5 qts low. Does it delay at all when you go from park to forward?

[tactransman]

Oh . And 518 converter will NOT swap.

[Haddixj]

what does the fluid smell like? is it burnt? You may have burnt up the pump and now you are not getting enough fluid pressure to engage the clutches. You can probably put a pressure guage in to tell for sure and with a bit of searching figure out what a realistic number is for pressure. I have no idea what normal would be so I cant comment there.

With no debris in the pan that means your clutches are probably still good.

[PlumCrazyChris]

It sounds like you burnt the forward clutch driving it 5 qts low. Does it delay at all when you go from park to forward?

There doesn't seem to be any delay at all, it smoothly goes into forward and reverse gears.  And on the smooth garage floor will spin the tires with the slightest throttle.  I can back out of the driveway and put it in drive and it will start to accelerate, then it seems to spin, until the RPMs drop back down, and then it will "catch" and go again around idle speed and starts slipping again. 

The ATF+4 fluid smells like new, as it pretty much is.  The only changes to the valve body were the addition of a B&M transpak kit for high-performance street, as well as the Mopar Action no-buck upgrade to remove the accumulator spring. 

Any chance one of these changes might cause my troubles?  ball bearing in the wrong hole, etc?

Should I tighten my bands? increase the line pressure....?  Pull the trans and swap for the unknown 518, take it to a shop for diagnosis?   I'd rather not spend any more money on this and my time to work on this is extremely limited, so I'd like to narrow it down if I can.

Looking for advice, transmissions aren't my specialty.

Thanks for your input!!!

[PlumCrazyChris]

It sounds like you burnt the forward clutch driving it 5 qts low. Does it delay at all when you go from park to forward?

Thanks for the input Terry,  so I need to pull the trans and have it gone through? 

Know any shops in Houston that know torque flights?

[tactransman]

The only changes to the valve body were the addition of a B&M transpak kit for high-performance street, as well as the Mopar Action no-buck upgrade to remove the accumulator spring. 

Any chance one of these changes might cause my troubles?  ball bearing in the wrong hole, etc?

Should I tighten my bands? increase the line pressure....?  Pull the trans and swap for the unknown 518, take it to a shop for diagnosis?   I'd rather not spend any more money on this and my time to work on this is extremely limited, so I'd like to narrow it down if I can.

Looking for advice, transmissions aren't my specialty.

Thanks for your input!!!

So you are saying the VB has been worked on since it was working right before? If, yes, then maybe it was not installed correctly (ball left out etc)

[PlumCrazyChris]

That's correct.  I didn't run it after I installed the shift kit.   I pulled it tonight, so I guess I'll haul to my friend in Austin, or find someone here in Houston that can help me with it.  I really don't want to use the A-518, I didn't cut my drive shaft short enough to run it.   I thought I did, but nope, its about as long as it can be and still fit the A-500. 

I'll pull the valve body and see if I put it together incorrectly.  Now to find a diagram showing how its supposed to be.  I suppose the FSM would have it.  Anyone know for sure?  Maybe the B&M website?

Again if anyone knows of a good trans shop in Houston, please let me know.

Thanks,
Chris

[transman]

That's correct.  I didn't run it after I installed the shift kit.   I pulled it tonight, so I guess I'll haul to my friend in Austin, or find someone here in Houston that can help me with it.  I really don't want to use the A-518, I didn't cut my drive shaft short enough to run it.   I thought I did, but nope, its about as long as it can be and still fit the A-500. 

I'll pull the valve body and see if I put it together incorrectly.  Now to find a diagram showing how its supposed to be.  I suppose the FSM would have it.  Anyone know for sure?  Maybe the B&M website?

Again if anyone knows of a good trans shop in Houston, please let me know.

Thanks,
Chris

For the shift kit instructions, go to the B & M website.  The factory service manual won't have any instructions for a shift kit.
Check your pressures if you can, and unless the pump is physically damaged there is nothing there that will effect line pressure.  They can't burn out.