Torsion bar replacement and adjustment

[CudaCraig]

The hex sockets look pretty close to the same position on both sides.
I'm not sure that you go by the stamped print/line on the end. They could be stamped a little off from each other?

Ahh...  I think you might be correct.  Looking at them closer is does appear that they stamping is off more than the clocking of the sockets.

So back to square one....  does not appear to be the rear sockets, tightening the LCA nut on the bushings first doesn't make a difference.   So I need to remove both bars to check that one is not damaged or incorrect?  Anything else I'm missing?

[brads70]

It's hard to tell from your pictures , (grease) but on the drivers side looking at the LCA the flat on the socket/t bar looks to be parallel with the bottom of the frame rail, on the other side it looks different, like the point of the hex is pointing up parallel with the frame rail?    Again, Hard to tell from a picture?

The rear crossmember looks good clocking wise though.

[Strawdawg]

The sockets look like they are similarly oriented so that does not seem to be the problem.

Makes me wonder if the bar was stamped incorrectly?

[brads70]

Are you sure they are .960" bars? I ask as there was a bad batch of 1" bars made from someone I can't remember (PST?) who that the clocking was bad/out. 

[CudaCraig]

It's hard to tell from your pictures , (grease) but on the drivers side looking at the LCA the flat on the socket/t bar looks to be parallel with the bottom of the frame rail, on the other side it looks different, like the point of the hex is pointing up parallel with the frame rail?    Again, Hard to tell from a picture?

The rear crossmember looks good clocking wise though.

Yes, the ride side is the side I had to force in basically.  The adjustment arm on the passanger side resting on the threaded block then using the LCA bolt/nut to suck the LCA in the remaining ~1". The only way I could do it with my hands basically.  I tried to describe it in a post early on.  Maybe this crude illustration will help...  I need the right to look like the left - essentially the adjustment arm pointed straight out horizontal from the car.  The only way I can get it in the right side is if the adjustment arm is 30* up or down.  I need to take apart the right side to confirm the clocking of the bars i guess.... ugh!      

[CudaCraig]

Are you sure they are .960" bars? I ask as there was a bad batch of 1" bars made from someone I can't remember (PST?) who that the clocking was bad/out.

I'm pretty sure they are 0.96" bars.... at least the 784L/785R stamping matches what others call 0.96" tbars.    Sounds like they just need to come out.... 

[CudaCraig]

The sockets look like they are similarly oriented so that does not seem to be the problem.

Makes me wonder if the bar was stamped incorrectly?

I guess that's a good possibility at this point.   

[Strawdawg]

you might put your calipers on both bars and see if they measure the same diameter....??

If you take them out, stand them on end so that the bottom hexes are lined up with each other...then look at the top hexes and see if they are clocked in opposite directions from one another....they should be equally clocked in opposite directions

[brads70]

you might put your calipers on both bars and see if they measure the same diameter....??

If you take them out, stand them on end so that the bottom hexes are lined up with each other...then look at the top hexes and see if they are clocked in opposite directions from one another....they should be equally clocked in opposite directions

   That's what I was going to suggest too. Post some pictures too?

[CudaCraig]

you might put your calipers on both bars and see if they measure the same diameter....??

If you take them out, stand them on end so that the bottom hexes are lined up with each other...then look at the top hexes and see if they are clocked in opposite directions from one another....they should be equally clocked in opposite directions

Ok, so I measured each side 3 times. For the right side I got 0.971", 0.967", 0.969". And for the left 0.964", 0.971", 0.967".

When I get the bars out I will check them as you suggested. 

[Strawdawg]

some days, cars are really easy to hate....I feel for you

[HP_Cuda]

Sounds like they are clocked wrong as they should slide right in with minimal effort.

[CudaCraig]

you might put your calipers on both bars and see if they measure the same diameter....??

If you take them out, stand them on end so that the bottom hexes are lined up with each other...then look at the top hexes and see if they are clocked in opposite directions from one another....they should be equally clocked in opposite directions

I think we have a winner! 

The bars are clocked differently.  The L, my good side, the bars are 30* offset from end to end - the hexhead point on one end lines up with the center of the flat part on the other end.  On the R bar, the trouble side, the hexhead is not offset - the point on one end lines up with the point on the opposite end.   

Based off the previous posts they should both be 30* offset, correct?  Not one one way and the other the other way?

[FY1Cuda]

Yes. They should be 30 degrees offset end-to-end.  Good job.

[Strawdawg]

Not sure that all are 30 degs, but they should be symmetrical...looks like a mis-packaging to me