Torsion bar replacement and adjustment

[Strawdawg]

Check the socket positions to see if they are identical

Steve

[1973JA5]

Also,do not tighten the LCA nut until you set the ride height,otherwise your LCA bushings will be toast!

[CudaCraig]

My first thought is the bar is not clocked correctly?  Never heard of a .960" bar screwed up though?  Who made the bar? Maybe compare the clocking/hex to the one that is good?

Yeah, I can't imagine the bar would be twisted.  Especially being a 0.96" bar. 

The bars are Mopar Performance torsion bars from Summit Racing.  They appeared to be in new condition when i received them.  No scratches or dings.  I hope I can tell whether the clocking is correct with them in.... I'm so exhausted from taking the front end apart, back together and apart again over and over again...

[CudaCraig]

My first thought is the bar is not clocked correctly?  Never heard of a .960" bar screwed up though?  Who made the bar? Maybe compare the clocking/hex to the one that is good?

It seems sort of like it's 30 degrees off.  The bar is a Mopar Performance product from Summit Racing.

I assume I can check the clocking without taking it all apart again?  Just undo the ride height/tension bolt and remove the bump stops?

[Chryco Psycho]

I am wrong ? I think the bars clock 15* approx otherwise there is no difference between L&R bars .

[brads70]

It seems sort of like it's 30 degrees off.  The bar is a Mopar Performance product from Summit Racing.

I assume I can check the clocking without taking it all apart again?  Just undo the ride height/tension bolt and remove the bump stops?

I don't think you need to disassemble it to check the clocking. They are fixed in the cross member , so with the adjusters unloaded are they mirror image on the LCA end as far as clocking is concerened?

[Strawdawg]

and as I asked earlier...are the clockings the same at the cross member...meaning or the sockets welded in the same way on both sides so there is no twist with relation to the ends at the cross member.  I have seen sockets that came loose and were welded incorrectly when repaired.

[CudaCraig]

Also,do not tighten the LCA nut until you set the ride height,otherwise your LCA bushings will be toast!

Damn, hopefully I haven't ruined them...

[brads70]

Damn, hopefully I haven't ruined them...

First time I've heard that?   

[CudaCraig]

Check the socket positions to see if they are identical

Steve

Crawled under the car a took a few pics...  first pic is of the right rear end of the torsion bar, second is of the left rear end of the torsion bar, third is of the left front end and the last one is of the right front (I was not able to remove all the tension on this bar - looks like I'll have to take the wheel off and disconnet the strut rod and maybe the spindle to get all the tension off it).  To me it looks like the clocking in the rear is different between the left and right by 15-30 degrees.   In the rear the left side is definitely not vertical like the right - as a reminder it's the right i'm having issues with.  I don't see any welds or anything that would suggest it would be different than stock. 

[CudaCraig]

Also,do not tighten the LCA nut until you set the ride height,otherwise your LCA bushings will be toast!

I loosened the LCA nuts and tried to adjust the ride height.  Didn't notice any difference.  Still high.  I do believe it's the torsion bar and then hex sockets that are dictating my ride height and tension on the torsion bar via the adjustment arm.

[CudaCraig]

and as I asked earlier...are the clockings the same at the cross member...meaning or the sockets welded in the same way on both sides so there is no twist with relation to the ends at the cross member.  I have seen sockets that came loose and were welded incorrectly when repaired.

So with the rear sockets being different it is likely they were repaired and not repaired correctly?  I assume they should be like the left...  see earlier post

[CudaCraig]

I am wrong ? I think the bars clock 15* approx otherwise there is no difference between L&R bars .

15* could be right.  Please see my pictures I posted earlier today.  Would it be correct to assume that the left is original and the right has been repaired?  The center line on the right is straight vertical and the centerline on the left is tilted maybe ~30 degrees.  That ~30* difference is what seems to be giving me issues and limiting the adjustment I need.

[CudamanTom]

The hex sockets look pretty close to the same position on both sides.
I'm not sure that you go by the stamped print/line on the end. They could be stamped a little off from each other?

[HP_Cuda]

First time I've heard that?   

Same here, no troubles.