727 with Big B&M Pan and external cooler...

[EMCD]

hey guys, i have a SB 360 with a 727 tranny with the B&M shift kit, a TCI street fighter 2400 stall converter, and their large aluminum finned pan. i believe it's a 10qt? my question is, can i get away with adding a signle pass oil cooler instead of routing the tranny fluid through the radiator? Will this be enough? if so, do i just cap the radiator inlet/outlets? or, do i need to fill the rad cooler with something? i.e. air expansion might blow the botton or the rad out?

[Colorado-0A5599]

Could you run fluid thru both? ie; Drivers side line out to New cooler in front of radiator then back to drivers side radiator nipple.

[EMCD]

i get a ton of heat soak in my rad from the oil cooler. i'm hoping for a cleaner route. i currently have a larger fin cooler that runs into the rad, but i cannot get the metal to hose connection to not drip after long drives. the oil on the drive way is pissing off the old lady. i was thinking i could run the single pass cooler on the frame rails right near the tranny and keep the grill area clear of any obstructions.

[transman]

i get a ton of heat soak in my rad from the oil cooler. i'm hoping for a cleaner route. i currently have a larger fin cooler that runs into the rad, but i cannot get the metal to hose connection to not drip after long drives. the oil on the drive way is pissing off the old lady. i was thinking i could run the single pass cooler on the frame rails right near the tranny and keep the grill area clear of any obstructions.

To work properly, a transmission cooler must be in maximum air flow, hence the majority are mounted in front of the radiator.
My suggestion would be to get a cooler made by Long Manufacturing. These are the best and most effiecent coolers made.   B & M sell them under their own brand name.  These are a stacked aluminum cooler that look like a rad.  They are OEM with Chrysler and Ford, although the mounting arangement is different from the one you'll purchase in the aftermarket.  The routing of the cooler flow is open to a variety of opinions.  Some say route it from the cooler to the rad, others say go from the rad to the cooler.  I think it is best to follow the advise of the cooler maker.  Putting a cooler on the frame rails takes it out of the direct air flow. 

[jhaag]

simple answer is yes you can just use the external cooler. Done it for many years without problems. It does need to be in the airflow though. the larger pan also helps cool. yes you can cap the radiator connections, or leave them open.

[transman]

NAPA sells the cooler I mentioned.  If you're not going to go through the rad though, make sure the cooler is large enough.

[EMCD]

so, my existing trans cooler sits in front of the rad by about 6" and looks like a mini rad. it's about 4x6" in dimensions. the thing i don't like about it, is the connections from the cut metal trans lines to the rubber hoses that it joins to the cool leaks and drips. is it easy/economical to get custom lines built?

[RzeroB]

so, my existing trans cooler sits in front of the rad by about 6" and looks like a mini rad. it's about 4x6" in dimensions. the thing i don't like about it, is the connections from the cut metal trans lines to the rubber hoses that it joins to the cool leaks and drips. is it easy/economical to get custom lines built?

You can install new hose-end fittings to hard-line connectors yourself. Russell or Earls fittings has just what you need to make a nice tight and most importantly non-leaking connection for your trans cooler. 

[EMCD]

Cool. How much do you think the parts will run me? Are they available at NAPA?

[72cudamaan]

Is the fluid leaking from a smooth hard line to a rubber line? If so, usually putting a double flare on the
smooth hard line will fix your problem. And it keeps the line attached better.

[EMCD]

i'm pretty sure i have a dble flare. the hose clamps just don't seem t do the trick. the drips are tiny, but they piss my wife off. she thinks that i've put a ton of $ into the cuda and it shouldn't leak at all.