Alternator replacement

[IroquoisPliskin]

Hello guys! As my alternator has died recently I'm searching for replacement. I'd like to ask for recommendation. I was thinking about using a bit more up to date alternator than the stock one.The replacement alternators I've found so far are using one wire setup and are around 100A. I'm wondering if there is a lot of modification work necessary to go with that setup and if the wiring of my 'cuda can handle 100A anyway. I think the stock alternators were just about a half that strong, right? I'm curious on your opinion/advice.
Thanks!

[Chryco Psycho]

in most cases a 100 amp alt will never produce that much current But I would still add a jumper from the alt output across to the start relay battery terminal , the factory bulkhead connections & dash alt guage were never designed to handle that much current

[burdar]

PowerMaster has some higher amp alts that seem to be popular.  The square back alt is a better design then the round back version.  Have you seen the Mad Electrical upgrade?  If not, here's the link.
http://www.madelectrical.com/electricaltech/amp-gauges.shtml

[dfrazz]

I spoke to a guy at Powermaster yesterday as I am ordering a new alternator, and he told me unless you are going for an OEM all of theirs are being produced with a min of 80 amp.  The one-wire includes an internal voltage regulator if you are looking to clean up the firewall.

[Strawdawg]

Alternators supply what is required.   The rating is the max it can produce. Seems powermaster is pretty expensive for a cheap Chinese alternator

Steve

[IroquoisPliskin]

Does it mean that I can use 100A one wire when connecting it to the starter relais battery terminal without any further modifications. Or maybe I still need to remove/replace some components or renew the wiring? I guess if doing so the alternator gauge becomes just a decorative accessory, right?

[burdar]

I wondered that too.  Can you just run the jumper wire from the alt to the starter relay and keep the existing wire hooked up to the alt?  That wire won't be protected with a fusible link though.  You could add one right at the alternator I guess.

There is a way to run the feed wire right to the starter relay and still keep the AMP gauge but I'm not sure what that is.  I know there is a schematic over on Moparts that shows how to do it.

[burdar]

Found this good thread about what the problem is with the original system and how to fix it.(while retaining your amp gauge)
http://www.dodgecharger.com/forum/index.php/topic,33574.0.html

In his illustration, he just leaves the original alt wire connected.  He says if there is a large short on the alt side, the engine will die so you don't need a link on that wire.  I'm not sure I agree with that.  What does everyone else think.  Wouldn't you want a link on the alt side too?

[Strawdawg]

You don't need a link. You can run a wire from the alternator post directly to the starter relay battery post.

Steve

[HP_Cuda]

Fuse limks are meant to blow when there is a huge spike in amps, if you have one between the alt nd relay when it blows you prevent charging unless it then goes thru the orig harness if you keep them both hooked up.

[burdar]

With the AMP gauge bypassed(red and black wires connected together) you are feeding the interior from two places.   The MAD article has you connecting the red and black wires to the same fusible link in the engine compartment.  If there is a short anywhere on the interior, that fusible link will blow.  All power to the interior will be lost.

If you keep the black wire connected to the alternator, the red side of the amp gauge splice is the only side that's protected by a fusible link.  If there is a short on the black side of the amp gauge splice, the alt will just keep pumping out amps and burn wires won't it?(possibly causing a fire)  I would think that you'd also want a fusible link on the original black wire coming off of the alternator.

The MAD article ALSO shows a fusible link on the bypass wire from the alt to the relay.

[HP_Cuda]

It certainly couldn't hurt

[Chryco Psycho]

I would not use a Powermaster , I have seen them last as little as 2 hrs

[MEK-Dangerfield]

If you keep the black wire connected to the alternator, the red side of the amp gauge splice is the only side that's protected by a fusible link.  If there is a short on the black side of the amp gauge splice, the alt will just keep pumping out amps and burn wires won't it?(possibly causing a fire)  I would think that you'd also want a fusible link on the original black wire coming off of the alternator.

The MAD article ALSO shows a fusible link on the bypass wire from the alt to the relay.

For what it's worth, I ran a fuseible link off my alternator. It was just scary to run a wire from the alternator to the starter relay unprotected in my opinion. I imagine it would take a lot to blow the link, almost a dead short. I guess that was my fear. What if my bypass wire somehow got pinched and shorted to the body of the car? Maximum smoke would be the outcome.   

[burdar]

That was my thinking on the existing alt wire too.  (If you left that in place instead of routing it over to the factory fusible link)  I would think you'd want both wires protected.  I don't know everything though.

Did you keep your existing wire hooked up to the alt then too?