Author Topic: T/A resto  (Read 1417 times)

Offline 73RallyeChallenger

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T/A resto
« on: April 16, 2014 - 11:05:40 PM »
I spoke to my engine builder today. I decided to tackle the engine rebuild this summer. The shop that I'm using already rebuilt my 340 in the 73 Challenger, and their work is top notch. The only problem is the average age of the shop staff is around 80 years old (old school engine shop) and if I left it for a couple of years till after the paint and body is done they might not be in business any longer. I'm getting my ducks in a row and tinkered in the garage tonight. I have a couple of questions.

1. How the heck do you get the RH exhaust manifold off? I have all the nuts and bolts removed, but the 2 forward studs closest to the alternator prevent the final removal of the exhaust manifold. I guess I can cut the studs, but won't that make it harder to get them out later on? Does the engine need to be loosened to wiggle the manifold off?
2. The only numbers I found on the LH exhaust manifold are the ones in the pics, no date code. Do you think they are original?
3. Plan on taking the rad into get sandblasted (volcanic ash) BEFORE I take it to the Rad shop to get re-cored. Anyone think this is a bad idea? The problem I found when I did this with the 73 Challenger is the hot tank they did on that one did not completely remove the paint, and when they re-painted it, it looked terrible. Very blotchy or alligatored paint job.

Here are the pics;

73 Triple Black 340 Challenger
70 Plum Crazy T/A Challenger - work in progress (AGAR)




Offline burdar

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Re: T/A resto
« Reply #1 on: April 17, 2014 - 12:39:48 AM »
Why aren't you removing the entire assembly out the bottom first? Way easier to disassemble that way.

The original studs in the heads aren't very long. There isn't much of it sticking out past the conical washer and nut when everything is installed. Are the correct studs in there?

Offline anlauto

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Re: T/A resto
« Reply #2 on: April 17, 2014 - 06:13:00 AM »
Yea I would disassemble the motor after it's out. No problem blasting the rad if you're going to recore it for sure.
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com

Offline 73RallyeChallenger

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Re: T/A resto
« Reply #3 on: April 17, 2014 - 10:09:18 AM »
Yea I would disassemble the motor after it's out. No problem blasting the rad if you're going to recore it for sure.

I was hoping to get the manifolds out for cermanic coating, will have to wait till I drop the drivetrain. Darren, will drop the drivetrain out thru the bottom, need to make use of the $500plus engine dolly cart from US Car Tool I bought for the 73. Lol.
73 Triple Black 340 Challenger
70 Plum Crazy T/A Challenger - work in progress (AGAR)

Offline anlauto

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Re: T/A resto
« Reply #4 on: April 17, 2014 - 10:16:26 AM »
Take the one motor mount bolt out of the passenger side and just move the motor over slightly then...jack it from the bottom :2cents:
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
www.alangallantautomotiverestoration.com

Offline 73RallyeChallenger

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Re: T/A resto
« Reply #5 on: April 17, 2014 - 10:42:09 AM »
Take the one motor mount bolt out of the passenger side and just move the motor over slightly then...jack it from the bottom :2cents:

Perfect, will give it a try!
73 Triple Black 340 Challenger
70 Plum Crazy T/A Challenger - work in progress (AGAR)

Offline 1 Wild R/T

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Re: T/A resto
« Reply #6 on: April 18, 2014 - 07:18:42 AM »
manifold should be handled so I'll only comment on the radiator..
Blast away but more importantly Don't Let The Radiator Shop Paint It!!!  I know some claim they use special radiator paint and it's gotta be used for proper cooling.. BS... I've painted the radiators on hundreds of restored cars never had an issue caused by my painting the radiator... (And I live in an area that stresses out cooling systems)  Just dust the core lightly with satin black trim paint so you don't restrict airflow with a heavy coating of paint, then mask the coat & paint all the exposed metal with quality paint...
JS27N0B 70 Challenger R/T Convertible  FJ5 Sublime, Show Poodle w/90,000 miles since resto
WS27L8G 68 Coronet R/T Convertible  PP1 Bright Red, Project
RM21H9E 69 Road Runner Coupe R4 Performance Red, Sold...
5H21C  65 Falcon 2 dr Wagon... Dog Hauler...

Offline burdar

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Re: T/A resto
« Reply #7 on: April 18, 2014 - 10:49:50 AM »
I used radiator paint on the core but regular paint on the tanks and brackets.

Offline 73RallyeChallenger

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Re: T/A resto
« Reply #8 on: April 18, 2014 - 02:52:32 PM »
Got the rad blasted. Turned out pretty nice. Will send it out next week for re-coring. Thanks for the advice, I'll make sure I paint it myself. Working on getting the RH manifold off and checking to see if the water pump is original. Boxing up the carbs for Scott Harms, and trying to get a Photobucket account set up so these photos don't get deleted.
73 Triple Black 340 Challenger
70 Plum Crazy T/A Challenger - work in progress (AGAR)