Author Topic: Another Dash Question  (Read 5081 times)

Offline filmsurgeon

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Another Dash Question
« on: May 02, 2014 - 04:31:32 PM »
I am in the process of assembling my dash (out of the car).  What's the best assembly sequence for everything that's attached to the dash frame?  At what point in the assembly process should the dash cap be installed?  Also, I repainted my dash frame and am concerned about what components that are attached to the frame get their electrical "ground" from the frame itself.  Obviously, none of the plastic pieces, but do ALL the components that have wires from the dash harness hooked up to them get ground from the frame?  Thanks for the help.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.




Offline CudamanTom

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #1 on: May 02, 2014 - 05:11:06 PM »
I just reassembled my dash. It would be easier to mount the pad first as some of those nuts are hard to get to with the instruments in the way IMHO.
I used an old blanket to lay my new dash cover (cap) on.
Secondly, I would make sure the main bezel frame has a good ground to the dash frame. If a bulb has a metal housing/plug, chances are it relies on a ground. So if that metal bulb connector attaches to a metal frame anywhere. Make sure that metal frame is grounded.
I also made an extra ground from the dash frame to the body frame because the interior was completely repainted.
For dash assembly, make sure to install the heart-A/C controls first, then the control panel to the left, then the main bezel assy, then the light bar. In that exact order. It is a puzzle in an order. But very easy.
Then the plastic trim attaches below.
I learned the hard way.  :bigsmile:
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


Because I like it fast!!!

Offline CudamanTom

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #2 on: May 02, 2014 - 05:19:07 PM »
And just to add,

As for lights needing frame ground,

Light bar, Turn indicators and high beam lights.

The brake light is just about the only light in the dash that doesn't rely on the dash frame ground.

Then the control panel frame needs a good ground because the switches relay on that frame to function.

Oh, and the dash pad will need to be in place before the light bar can be installed.

Hope this helps.

Tom
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


Because I like it fast!!!

Offline anlauto

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #3 on: May 02, 2014 - 06:19:19 PM »
Yep...Dash pad first :2thumbs:
I've taught you everything you know.....but I haven't taught you everything I know !
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Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #4 on: May 02, 2014 - 06:28:47 PM »
Thanks for the tips so far.  I opted to install "some" of the A1 package lights (i.e. glove box light, ashtray light, and Rallye Dash switch illumination light (left of the gauge cluster).  Do all of these get ground from the frame?  Also, does the lighter in the ashtray get ground from the frame? Does the radio get ground from the frame?  At the moment, the dash cap/pad is not installed. So far, I have only installed the glove box door and liner, the ashtray, and the 4-SPD REVERSE light (between the ashtray and glove box).  I think I'll be able to still get the cap/pad on now, and then follow with there rest of the stuff.  I noticed that I'll need to install the radio bezel and right lower plastic dash trim BEFORE I install the radio (is this correct?).  Any other tips/advice are greatly appreciated.  Thanks.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline CudamanTom

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #5 on: May 02, 2014 - 06:55:12 PM »
This is just me, but...

I ease in handling and keep it lighter, I kept the glove box door and liner, ashtray, radio and all trim off before installing the dash.
Anything that can be installed after install of the dash waited.

The glove box, ashtray and the dash switch use the frame for ground (I did install these prior to dash install).
The lighter in the ashtray should be attached to the ashtray which is grounded already. Only the orange wire attaches to the pole connector for power.
The bracket/strap (long skinny metal bracket) that holds the radio level is the ground I believe.
The bezel for the radio goes on after the nuts to the radio are tightened against the frame (which provides ground too), then the bezel, then the knobs.
« Last Edit: May 02, 2014 - 07:12:28 PM by CudamanTom »
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


Because I like it fast!!!

Offline CudamanTom

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #6 on: May 02, 2014 - 07:50:12 PM »
One more thing, if you haven't thought about it.
Make sure the heater-A/C control cables are mounted behind the heater-A/C control panel before installing the dash. Those are a bear to get to after dash is installed.
Also, if the heater-A/C box or fresh air vent on drivers side are removed, install those first.
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


Because I like it fast!!!

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #7 on: May 02, 2014 - 08:14:33 PM »
The bezel for the radio goes on after the nuts to the radio are tightened against the frame (which provides ground too), then the bezel, then the knobs.

Thanks again for the advice.  However, I'm fairly certain that the radio bezel (and right lower trim) MUST be attached to the frame BEFORE the radio is installed because of this one attachment point (see red arrow) where the bezel and right lower trim attach to the dash frame, which is inaccessible from behind if the radio is in place.  Am I correct?  Thanks.
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline CudamanTom

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2014 - 09:05:54 PM »
Thanks again for the advice.  However, I'm fairly certain that the radio bezel (and right lower trim) MUST be attached to the frame BEFORE the radio is installed because of this one attachment point (see red arrow) where the bezel and right lower trim attach to the dash frame, which is inaccessible from behind if the radio is in place.  Am I correct?  Thanks.
Yes, you are correct, I stand corrected and apologize for the misinformation. Got ahead of myself.  :banghead:
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


Because I like it fast!!!

Offline AARuFAST

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #9 on: May 02, 2014 - 11:02:25 PM »
1970 AAR Cuda
1970 Gran Coupe Ragtop. 1 of 66
Gran Cpe Convertible 1 yr only.

" I Want to Ride "

" I tried to be normal once...
it was the most boring
2 minutes of my life!!!!"

Offline CudamanTom

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #10 on: May 02, 2014 - 11:07:56 PM »
Check this out...........
http://www.justdashes.blogspot.com/2011/08/instructions-1970-74-mopar-e-body-dash.html

That's good stuff.
I found and used my actions with some info from that article.
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


Because I like it fast!!!

Offline elmoska

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #11 on: May 05, 2014 - 08:26:45 PM »
do you guys put the ''insulator'' that goes between the dash pad and dash frame.
1974 challenger on its way..

Offline filmsurgeon

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #12 on: May 05, 2014 - 08:56:04 PM »
do you guys put the ''insulator'' that goes between the dash pad and dash frame.

If you're talking about the under dash/cowl insulation, Yes. I did (see photos).
1970 Challenger Convertible (JH27N0B); Resto-Mod; 605 HP, 412cid Small Block; Holley 750CFM Carburetor; A-833 23-spline 4-SPD; A-body 8.75 rear-end w/3.55 gears; 3" mini-tub; leaf spring relocation kit with split-leaf mono and Caltracs; American Racing AR500 Wheels, Rears = 15x10 (5.5" BS) with 315/60-15 BFG Comp T/A Drag Radials; Fronts = 15x7 (3.5" BS) with 215/70-15 BFG Radial T/A Radials.

Offline CudamanTom

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #13 on: May 05, 2014 - 08:59:43 PM »
do you guys put the ''insulator'' that goes between the dash pad and dash frame.

I went with FatMat insulator so I opted out of the thicker insulator.
1971 Cuda Vert 440-833 - (clone)
1971 Cuda 440-727 - (clone)


Because I like it fast!!!

Offline elmoska

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Re: Another Dash Question
« Reply #14 on: May 05, 2014 - 09:23:25 PM »
thanks for the pics filmsurgeon but i really mean the foam between the pad and the frame.
1974 challenger on its way..