Wrong Z bar / bell crank in Cuda ?

[Racer57]

Is there a Zbar / clutch bell crank that will fit a 70 383 Cuda, but it actually the wrong one and will not allow proper travel of the throw out bearing ?

If so, how do you identify the correct one ?

[HP_Cuda]

My guess is that you are talking about the Z-bar which I believe is the same for both 383 and 440's - BB cars.

B

[Racer57]

My guess is that you are talking about the Z-bar which I believe is the same for both 383 and 440's - BB cars.

B

Yes. Had a brain fart. 

[jhaag]

look on Brewer's web site or call them up. Yes there are differences, and if you don't know what you have they can help identify.

[Chryco Psycho]

Could be a problem with the clutch plate also if the fingers are adjusted too high or low

[Topcat]

I replaced my adjuster rod from an E body to an A body.
they're longer so you can get the right free play clutch travel.

[Racer57]

The adjustment rod has plenty of adjustment to it. Problem is that the clutch does not release enough. It does not grind, it just does not want to go into gear without a lot more pressure being applied to shifter than I feel is safe. If I adjust the rod too much, the throw out bearing presses too far into the pressure plate and makes a rattle like sound. I've heard of the arms on the pressure plate not being set properly, the springs on the clutch plate could be to big of diameter and getting hit and that the Z bar is the wrong one. Not sure wtf to think.

[73EStroker]

I have been fighting similar issues to what you describe for the last 5 years. Last years install of my Passon 5 spd prompted me to do something. So out came the gearbox 2 weeks back. Had a warranty returned pressure plate from Mcleod that they had adjusted the finger height many years ago ( as CP has said to check) and installed that with the correct e body pivot and voila, it works like a new car. So what I ended up with was 2 bad clutches from Mcleod one after the other. The one I took out never released correctly and was sometimes hard to get into gear. So now the other clutch has Mcleod saying send it down and they will fix it for free even after 5 years. Just will cost me shipping. So you have to remove the tranny and get the fingers adjusted most likely which has to be done by a specialty place like Mcleod. A easy way to check is the adjusting screws should be about 1/8" above the locknuts (3) that you see on the pressure plate. Don't try and do this yourself as it can cause uneven contact which could have disastrous results.

[Racer57]

I have been fighting similar issues to what you describe for the last 5 years. Last years install of my Passon 5 spd prompted me to do something. So out came the gearbox 2 weeks back. Had a warranty returned pressure plate from Mcleod that they had adjusted the finger height many years ago ( as CP has said to check) and installed that with the correct e body pivot and voila, it works like a new car. So what I ended up with was 2 bad clutches from Mcleod one after the other. The one I took out never released correctly and was sometimes hard to get into gear. So now the other clutch has Mcleod saying send it down and they will fix it for free even after 5 years. Just will cost me shipping. So you have to remove the tranny and get the fingers adjusted most likely which has to be done by a specialty place like Mcleod. A easy way to check is the adjusting screws should be about 1/8" above the locknuts (3) that you see on the pressure plate. Don't try and do this yourself as it can cause uneven contact which could have disastrous results.

Thanks !!   

[73EStroker]

Also if you are sending the pp away to get fixed make sure you give them the plate details like what it is and measure and advise the total thickness

[ShelbyDogg]

Just reach in there with a 3/4" wrench and adjust the fingers yourself. Adjust it so when fully release the top of your 3 fingers are close to the pressure plate cover but not touching, then go a little bit more for disc wear. You can get all 3 fingers set to the same height by comparing the gap to the throwout bearing.

Your 3 hat bolts need to come out (counter-clockwise) which will raise your fingers up. Look in there and see how much gap is in between the hat and fingers, I bet it's big.  I doesn't take much turning to move your fingers a lot so go 1 hex at a time.

Every clutch gets adjusted differently depending on the thickness of the clutch disk. I mix and match my stuff so adjust every one. You can do it on the bench by bolting it to a spare flywheel and visually adjusting and measuring them or from the bottom by rotating the crank and doing one finger at a time, if already installed in the car. Then adjust your throwout bearing adjuster so it is not touching the fingers with the foot off of the pedal.