autocross leaf spring debate

[halle09]

so for the first time i got to drive my 73 340 cuda today!!!! everything went well mechanically thankfully. but my leaf springs are BAD they are completely flat with no one even in the car and you can tell driving it. my application is handling PRIORITY. i looked at the hotchkis lowering leafs and i almost fainted at the price. before i go blowing my money i want to know what is good to go with that i can build off of for eventual purely amateur fun autocross from time to time. and i dont want the butt end of the car in the air either. i see summit has original, xhd, and lowering springs but i dont know all my options and best for the application. help a brother out.

[Chryco Psycho]

So what makes your springs bad ? they have the best side to side resistance when they are flat , any arc decreases the effectiveness , keeping the car low also helps handling , are they too soft ?

[brads70]

You could add a leaf, ESPO springs and things is a good option. I've read the Mopar springs sag really quickly and most seem  avoid them. Hotchkis springs do lower the car , some don't like that. 
The old saying " going fast costs money, how fast do you want to go?" is true quality parts are pricey.
I am using composite springs and they are more expensive than Hotchkis .

What is you car doing in the corners?  I'd bet the springs are not the issue?

[halle09]

So what makes your springs bad ? they have the best side to side resistance when they are flat , any arc decreases the effectiveness , keeping the car low also helps handling , are they too soft ?

seems like when i hit bumps i bottom out in the back. like there is no cushioning. and the shocks are those cheap auto parts store shocks but they look new. no surface rust on them really. and i hear them actuating when i bounce the car up and down. mabye take a shock out and test it by hand?

[halle09]

i will go under the car tomorrow and post some pictures up to give a better perspective for you guys.

[brads70]

seems like when i hit bumps i bottom out in the back. like there is no cushioning. and the shocks are those cheap auto parts store shocks but they look new. no surface rust on them really. and i hear them actuating when i bounce the car up and down. mabye take a shock out and test it by hand?

Maybe your bottoming out on the pinion snubber? and/or the shocks too? if the car is low enough?

[ToxicWolf]

Maybe your bottoming out on the pinion snubber? and/or the shocks too? if the car is low enough?

The snubber was my problem with the hotchkis springs.  Took it off and shortened lt, no more problem.   

[Mopar Mitch]

I've been running the Flex-A-Form fiberglass mono-leafs for my SCCA Solo/autocross competition street T/A (class E/Sptreet Prepared)... Combined with the 1.24 TBs, Red Konis, 1.25 front, 1.00" rear sway bars, and other misc things (lightening the weight, etc), the car rides and handles great.. cruising highway and autocross are fantastic, as well as recent road course HSAX events lapping sessions, etc.

My leafs are 225 pounds per inch, with a 5" free arch... compressed comes down to nearly flat... ~1"-1.5" (minimal load of ~1/4 tank gas, empty trunk, etc.  Before determining what rear spring rate and arch you want (flatter = better handling response) you must know the 4-corner weights of the car, with driver and misc as you'd intend to drive for your peak performance... especially, at least, you ned to know the rear weights.  Flex-A-Form worked with me to determine the best setup.. a good company that knows their business!   ALL fibeglass mono leafs take a while to settle (mine took about 2-weeks).... have had them since late 1980s.... also, saved about 30-40 pounds vs multi-leaf metal de-arched springs.

[halle09]

this is a pain in the A#% the site only allows 400 kb or less for pics mine are all 1mb idk how to post them. the leaf springs are definitely flat nd u shaped but def a hair above completely flat. and pinion snubber has a distance of 1 1/2 inches of distance from body from the tip of the rubber. from the floor to the top of the fender lip where the tire is is exactly 24 inches. the front does sit higher than the rear. hopefully that will help i just need to know how to post pick. How much did those fiberglass leafs run you?

[brads70]

this is a ain in the A#% the sie only allows 400 kb or less for pics mine are all 1mb idk how to post them. the leaf springs are definitely flat nd u shaped but def a hair above completely flat. and pinion snubber has a distance of 1 1/2 inches of distance from body from the tip of the rubber. from the floor to the top of the fender lip where the tire is is exactly 24 inches. the front does sit higher than the rear. hopefully that will help i just need to know how to post pick. How much did those fiberglass leafs run you?

1 1/2"....  it most likely drops 3/4" when you get in so I would say it's hitting and the suspension is going solid.
My composites were about $300 each

[halle09]

1 1/2"....  it most likely drops 3/4" when you get in so I would say it's hitting and the suspension is going solid.
My composites were about $300 each

yea and there are definite  rub marks where its hitting the body. how do i rectify this?

[Chryco Psycho]

Adjust or remove the snubber , you can lower the front end with the T bars .
 Shocks can make a huge difference $30 shocks are crap all the time , the shock controls the motion of the spring , if it moves slightly it can be soft but still tighten up fast under rapid change for example , double adjustable allow you to control both the compression & rebound direction differently , shocks are one of the most overlooked parts of the suspension .

[halle09]

Adjust or remove the snubber , you can lower the front end with the T bars .
 Shocks can make a huge difference $30 shocks are crap all the time , the shock controls the motion of the spring , if it moves slightly it can be soft but still tighten up fast under rapid change for example , double adjustable allow you to control both the compression & rebound direction differently , shocks are one of the most overlooked parts of the suspension .

i guess ill go with making my own snubber that is lower. gives me an excuse to break out the welder i need fabrication practice anyway. i will look into good shocks for sure what double adjusters do you recommend?

[brads70]

i guess ill go with making my own snubber that is lower. gives me an excuse to break out the welder i need fabrication practice anyway. i will look into good shocks for sure what double adjusters do you recommend?

If it's a stock one you can simply cut down the rubber or change the rubber to something like this.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ens-9-9103g/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ens-9-9121g/overview/

A few of us on here are using QA1 double adjustable shocks. I like them, they work good. About $250 each though.

[halle09]

If it's a stock one you can simply cut down the rubber or change the rubber to something like this.

http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ens-9-9103g/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/ens-9-9121g/overview/

A few of us on here are using QA1 double adjustable shocks. I like them, they work good. About $250 each though.

  ok cutting the rubber sounds good .what about viking shocks they look decent and a much better price