#1 cylinder location on Distributor - 440 engine

[NorthWestcuda]

Thank everyone.  I found TDC, pulled and rotated my distributor 180deg to look kinda like the picture I posted.  Then I moved all my wires around to put them back in order.  Still runs the same.  I can drive it just fine, as before I pulled it, but something is just not correct.  So at least I know the distributor location is not the issue.   I'll keep looking at other issues and post questions as I have them.

You guys are awesome.   

[cudabob496]

good time to recheck wires one more time.
they can always fake you out!

Make sure contacts in distributor cap are clean.
A new cap is only around $30 in many cases.

And don't want wires touching and running paralell to each other,
as you can get a misfire.

[Strawdawg]

Thank everyone.  I found TDC, pulled and rotated my distributor 180deg to look kinda like the picture I posted.  Then I moved all my wires around to put them back in order.  Still runs the same.  I can drive it just fine, as before I pulled it, but something is just not correct.  So at least I know the distributor location is not the issue.   I'll keep looking at other issues and post questions as I have them.

You guys are awesome.

Is this a new car to you?

[Chryco Psycho]

What are the symptoms of it not running "right" ?

[shadango]

And don't want wires touching and running paralell to each other,
as you can get a misfire.

I have always wrestled with this.....even with wire separators, wires end up touching SOMEWHERE......

[Strawdawg]

I have always wrestled with this.....even with wire separators, wires end up touching SOMEWHERE......

with modern quality wires, it is seldom a problem.  The problem lies within inductance between two parallel wires over a distance-particularly on wires that are next to one another in the firing order.  Most factory harness arrangements try to keep wires that are next to each other in the firing order from being parallel to one another for any distance...rather they put another wire between them as soon as possible or have them cross each other perpendicularly until another wire can intervene.

If the plugs are in good condition, the level of inductance is usually going to be pretty low anyway.

In this case cylinders 5-7 would be the two to try to keep separated as much as possible or have them cross back and forth in the harness at the end of the run.  Saveyour energy and wrestle with something more likely to cause problems.

[NorthWestcuda]

Is this a new car to you?

Strawdog,  No I've had the car for around 15 years.  I bought it in parts after they had painted it but not reassembled. I took 4 or 5 years to get put back together.   The biggest problem with it is I have to keep it in storage since I don't have a shop at the house.  When I bring it to the house I hate to leave it outside even with a car cover because of the dust and dam cats that like to walk on all my cars.  So bottom line is I have to plan on working on it and just cant go out after work and start tinkering on it.   

[Strawdawg]

Okay, now help me organize my thoughts

Was the car running okay the last time you cranked it up, or is it an ongoing problem?

Tell us what carb is on the car.  What kind of ignition (points or electronic)?

Tell us what the symptoms appear to be.  Does it idle smoothly but miss at higher throttle openings?  What is the vacuum reading when the vacuum gauge is connected to manifold vacuum?

Have you looked at the plugs to be sure they are dry and not fouled?

Try to explain what you are experiencing and maybe we can cut the troubleshooting down and gain some focus...otherwise we will be pulling guesses out of the air without any logical basis 

[NorthWestcuda]

Okay, now help me organize my thoughts

Was the car running okay the last time you cranked it up, or is it an ongoing problem?

Tell us what carb is on the car.  What kind of ignition (points or electronic)?

Tell us what the symptoms appear to be.  Does it idle smoothly but miss at higher throttle openings?  What is the vacuum reading when the vacuum gauge is connected to manifold vacuum?

Have you looked at the plugs to be sure they are dry and not fouled?

Try to explain what you are experiencing and maybe we can cut the troubleshooting down and gain some focus...otherwise we will be pulling guesses out of the air without any logical basis 

The car has not be running right for a couple years now and I'm finally getting around to working on things.
I just doesn't have the power or perform like it used to.  Always hesitates at acceleration.  Used to get decent tire spin going into second with the automatic.
Sometimes I wonder it the secondaries are even kicking in.

The carb is a Holley 4150 series DP mech, 750 CFM. 
I have a cheap aftermarket electronic distributor that will not allow me to adjust the vacuum advance or change the mechanic springs. I realize this could be a problem.
Vacuum at idle is about 5.  That is the reading from the carb metering block and not the manifold.  I'll get a reading from manifold when I get things back together and report back.   No vacuum leaks around the intake or carb.
Plugs are dark golden brown on all eight.  I just started running Premium Clear (ethanol free) gas with octane boost added. That did help.
I don't know what type of cam it has but its pretty aggressive.  Haven't needed to tear it down that far yet.

This is a work in progress and this is what I've done so far....
Leak down test was good on all cylinders around 13% to 18%.  However #8 at 28% and #7 at 29%. All the noise was coming from the rings.
So I did a dry and wet compression test.  Dry all cylinders tested at low 160 to highs of 170lbs. Wet, all cylinders tested around 170 - 185lbs.  #7 jumped 25lbs and #8 jumped only 10lbs.
I'm installing timing tape on my balancer so I can set and read total timing.  I just got the balancer off tonight. 
I'm going to look at the power valve and squirter after I get the timing set and working correctly.
I'll also make sure and test the spark plug wires.

I'll post more information as I get it done. 

Thanks, Guys   

[Strawdawg]

My guess is the carburetor...but check the reluctor gap and make sure it is right and look at the cap and rotor and replace if you see any carbon tracking or corrosion.

take the carb apart, make sure all the passages are clear in the body and metering blocks, remove the accelerator pump check balls and be sure those passages are open.  Put new gaskets in it, set the floats, and see if both accelerator pumps spray  immediately as the throttleblades move.  Make sure the power valves are not blown.  OR...since the carb is on the small side, buy a new 850 dp and install it

Strange the leak down was so bad on the back two cylinders...did you do it on a warm engine so the rings had some oil on them?

If you had not pulled the balancer, I would have suggested making a mark on it 2 3/8"  clockwise from the front which would be 36 degs as Chryco always suggests...

The carb should have a manifold vacuum port at the near the bottom on the front....

[NorthWestcuda]

I was going to mark the 2 3/8 clockwise on the balancer but I had already ordered the timing tape so I figured I'd install it correctly.  Plus I wanted to pull the radiator and see how dirty things looked inside the bottom exit pipe of the radiator. Sometimes she overheats so I wanted to make sure the radiator was clean and flowed well. 
   
If I remember correctly the leak down test was done on a cold engine.  It sounds like I was supposed to do the test on a warm engine??

I'll check the relator gap since I never have, good idea.  After that I start working on the carb. 

[HP_Cuda]

If you are pulling 5 " at idle then either you have a mean cam or you have a huge vacuum leak which would seem to point to your problem.

I'd get a known good carb and slap it on there and give her a go. Then if that does not work try eliminating all possible vacuum leaks.

Good luck!

[Chryco Psycho]

\With Vacuum @ 5" at idle you will need a 3.5 powervalve minimum if the vacuum is lower when at idle in gear you will  need lower yet . timing should be around 12-16* at idle , no vacuum advance connected & around 36* at 3000+ rpm this may help your idle vacuum , I would agree that carb tuning is probably nessisary but hard to tell when you are not there

[Strawdawg]

from his post, I could not tell if he was connected to manifold or port vacuum...