Author Topic: Screwed Up  (Read 2016 times)

Offline Dusty1

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #15 on: June 20, 2014 - 10:15:07 PM »
Thanks! I'll check that in the morning. The only thing that moves at all is the volt meter, and it jerks around like its not feeling so well. In the picture above, what is the barrel thing next to the limiter? It plugs into the limiter.
Garys 1972 BS




Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #16 on: June 20, 2014 - 11:17:19 PM »
That's a capacitor, or in car-speak, a condenser. It smooths out the voltage by eliminating the peaks and valleys so the needles on the gauges move slowly and don't jerk around.  Without it, for example, your gas gauge might read empty momentarily when you went around a sharp turn.

One more question (for now):
I get that you put a "Y" on the oil sender port and that you added another sender for the water temp.  Does the circuitry for the temp senders share any wires?  It sounds like they're separate.  Same for the oil senders--it doesn't seem like the old circuit and the new one connect anywhere.  The black wire that feeds the limiter comes from a splice connection of four or five wires all taped up in the middle of the dash wiring harness.  A short might have damaged that wire.  As a quick test, you could run a jumper wire from the "BATT" spade connection on the bottom of the fuse block to the center spade of the limiter to see if the gauges will respond.
Good luck
« Last Edit: June 20, 2014 - 11:32:55 PM by FY1Cuda »

Offline Dusty1

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #17 on: June 21, 2014 - 12:03:31 AM »
In the morning I'm checking to see if there is any voltage on the center wire(12 v) then if there is any output(5 v). If not I'll try a jumper like you say. Separate wire for each sender. Do you know what is powered from the fuse at the top right in the oe fuse block? It shows no voltage with a good fuse in it. Thanks for all the help!
Garys 1972 BS

Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #18 on: June 21, 2014 - 01:06:29 AM »
The upper right fuse is for the instrument panel lights.

Just looked at a wiring diagram, and about the spliced connection I mentioned:
Power comes from the ignition switch and then is connected to four other wires:
power to the wiper switch
power to  the turn signal flasher
power to the accessory feed plug on the bottom of the fuse block
power to the voltage limiter

Do  the wipers and turn signals work?

Offline Dusty1

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #19 on: June 21, 2014 - 09:05:36 PM »
Wipers and turn signals work. Tested for voltage and read none. Ran a jumper with key to ignition and the gas gauge read correctly. Started the car and put 12 volts to it and sparks flew. I thought it just needed power but wouldn't take voltage when started. Still confused!
Garys 1972 BS

Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #20 on: June 22, 2014 - 04:03:25 PM »
Sorry you're having such a horrible time with your gauges.   At this point I can only suggest that you disconnect the new stuff temporarily, and then check with your meter voltages everywhere with the ignition on and off.  Also check that the gauge cluster is really grounded and doesn't have any positive voltage in it (with both the ignition on and off).

Offline Dusty1

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #21 on: June 22, 2014 - 04:37:31 PM »
I'll do that! Thanks for hanging with me! I'll just have to keep searching. I do appreciate the help!
Garys 1972 BS

Offline Dusty1

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #22 on: June 26, 2014 - 08:34:24 PM »
Finally!!! :bananasmi Got a diagram showing which fuse supplies my oe gauges. Left side of #6 was hot, right side nothing. I could see the fuse is good but I try prying the end up to pull it out, but it slips back in. Test it again and its hot. Turn key on and my gauges work. I still don't know why it happened, I'm just glad it all works now. Thanks for all the suggestions. Sometimes you just have to work through it!
Garys 1972 BS

Offline FY1Cuda

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #23 on: June 26, 2014 - 08:58:11 PM »
Good news.  I'm glad you got it straightened out.

Offline demo0211

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Re: Screwed Up
« Reply #24 on: June 27, 2014 - 03:10:31 PM »
Just went through this myself and bought a solid state limiter from RT Engineering ($50) that solved everything. 12 volts comes into the limiter which is grounded to the cluster and 5v out to the fuel which then feeds 5v to the oil then on to the temp gauge.  I fought with the old style limiter and it just wasn't putting out enough volts and was inconsistent.  Hope this helps.