clutch & flywheel - leave them alone, fix them, or replace them?

[dakota]

There are a bunch of questions in this post.   Any help or guidance would be greatly appreciated.

I'm in the process of replacing the A833 transmission on my "new to me" 70 Challenger with a 340-4 bbl.   Once the transmission was out, I decided to drop the clutch (10.5" borg & beck) too in order to see what kind of shape it's it and be able to check the bellhousing alignment.   The clutch pressure plate has 2 spots each roughly the size of a quarter where there is a depression that I can feel with my finger tip (maybe several thousandths deep).   There's a picture attached of one of the spots marked with blue tape.   The flywheel has 2 similar spots in the same orientation that aren't as deep but are still noticeable to the touch.   
    How will this effect the driving if I just put this back together as? 
    Is there an option to get the clutch and flywheel faces machined like I would a brake rotor? 
    Better to just replace everything?
 
I've only driven the car a half mile or so (no tags or inspection - had to be short) since I purchased it.   The clutch seemed to be working OK but I was probably too excited about driving it to notice much.

On a related matter, I would welcome opinions about the keeping or replacing the clutch disc.  It measures about 5/16" thick consistently.  There appears to be just a little bit of normal wear on the surface (see pictures of front and back).

I will using the Challenger for the "no snow & sunny" version of a daily driver... nothing aggressive.   Given the size of my remaining parts list, I'm trying to conserve $ where possible but I definitely don't want to have to have to pull the transmission again any time soon if these spots are going to become a problem.   

Thanks in advance for the help.

[Racer57]

After all the BS I've gone through in the last year or so to get mine worked out, I strongly suggest you replace everything and do not use a McLeod B&B (3finger) pressure plate.  Its either replace everything now while its out or do it later when its a hassle.

[Edison1970]

Have the flywheel cut by a machine shop.  Disc looks ok to me.  Hard to tell not being there.  A new Hays disc is about $100.  The pressure plate should be smooth.  The chance you take is it could start to chatter.  I've never seen a pressure plate with just spots like that.  Burns and scores but not in one spot.  Maybe someone with more insight can chime in.

[Chlngrcrzy]

After all the BS I've gone through in the last year or so to get mine worked out, I strongly suggest you replace everything and do not use a McLeod B&B (3finger) pressure plate.  Its either replace everything now while its out or do it later when its a hassle.

I 100% agree. Replace the clutch, disc, and throw out bearing and then have the flywheel resurfaced. I personally would never go with another Mcleod either.  I went with a CenterForce II diaphragm pressure plate. I stuck it in and adjusted it and away i went. Love how it feels.

[Chryco Psycho]

I would go to the 10.95" set up & add the extra surface area , I have used a LOT of McLeod B&B/Long style pressure plates with no issues but there has been a run of bad ones recently or maybe everyone is just using the B&B style not the B&B Long that I use , McLeod is the only one that offers the B&B Long type PP , maybe they hired a new guy that knows nothing about bulding them  .
 Personally I hate the diaphragm type , I have seen the pedal stay on the floor too many times to trust them & the cars were never designed for diaphragm type .

[dakota]

Turns out there's a NAPA store with a machine shop not far from where I live.  I took the flywheel there this afternoon for resurfacing, along with the rear drums.   After I put the post up, I was looking at the pressure plate again.   There's actually a bit of a taper from outside to inside (high to low).  It's a long shot, but I asked the guy at the NAPA desk to see if the machinist can do anything with the pressure plate.   He wasn't optimistic.  Looks like a new clutch is in my future.

[73EStroker]

If you machine a substantial amount of material off the pressure plate then the fingers will require resetting which has to be done by a special shop. Then how do you know what life is left in the pressure plate that you are going to brush up. Sounds like you need a new one. And, as per my experiences with two bad clutches, I would make sure Mcleod adjust it correctly for your application. That is all that was wrong with my clutches. The other thing is (as CP said) to purchase the long style clutch from Mcleod. Diaphragm may work for you as well but remember they were only invented because they are cheaper to produce than the 3 finger styles.

[dakota]

If you machine a substantial amount of material off the pressure plate then the fingers will require resetting which has to be done by a special shop. Then how do you know what life is left in the pressure plate that you are going to brush up. Sounds like you need a new one. And, as per my experiences with two bad clutches, I would make sure Mcleod adjust it correctly for your application. That is all that was wrong with my clutches. The other thing is (as CP said) to purchase the long style clutch from Mcleod. Diaphragm may work for you as well but remember they were only invented because they are cheaper to produce than the 3 finger styles.

Wow.  The view definitely isn't worth the climb.   Thanks for the advice.   

[dakota]

I ordered a new 10.95" B&B/long with from Jamie at Passon Performance earlier today.

BTW - The machine shop wouldn't touch the clutch pressure plate face.  Based on the earlier comments, it would be a red flag if they wanted to try.   The flywheel and rear drums were resurfaced for just over $70 total at NAPA.

Thanks again for the feedback.

[Chryco Psycho]

Cool