after market fuel gauge,help/info

[Dragon383]

Hello all,

Little info. I bought the car last summer. It had major electric problems. I had three aftermarket gauges when I got it. The fuel gauge was original. It worked.  Over the winter(spring) I got the whole car rewired and running last week. I figured while doing it all, and since my dash was already cut up, I switched to all new gauges. I bought new Auto Meter Gauges. I bought the Cobalt 6113 fuel gauge. 0 ohm empty, 90 ohm full.

I had read that this was the correct ohm level for the factory float/sender.
When I got the car running the gauge showed 1/4 full. That seemed low.  I drove about 55 miles and then put in 10 gallons today. The guage didn't move much while driving the 55 miles. The gauge now shows almost empty

Did I buy the wrong ohm gauge?  Is the sender/float messed up? Is there an easy fix or do I need a differnt gauge? Any info on how it all works would be great.

Thanks all

[mrbill426]

I believe it is 10 ohms full and 73 ohms empty

[Strawdawg]

I believe it is 10 ohms full and 73 ohms empty

Yep, you bought the wrong gauge...you need the one that matches the above

[Dragon383]

Dang.  I felt this coming.  Not that I don't trust you all, but is there a way to test it?  I looked it up on the interwebs the first time and as we all know now, it did not go so  well. 

[Moparal]

touch the tank wire to a ground, it should read a full tank, but you will need the correct ohm specs to work for your cluster like others pointed out to you
tank your fuel pick up out and get an ohm meter, set it to 20k  then ground one clip to the pick up and the other to the conector on top. With the float hanging down it will have a reading, then lift the float up and look at your reading. you may have to hook the clip to the post and to the float hanger for this test as you will actually be reading continuity from low to full

[dutch]

I use a speedhut gauge. Set full, set empty and done.