What should I do with this 400 ?

['Cuda Hunter]

My 383 is out of the car and awaiting a decision.

I've acquired a 58K mile 1978 dodge 400 truck motor.
I have now stripped some of the parts off of the block.
I know that I need some parts to put back on it like a four barrel intake manifold, an oil pan (402), correct pulleys, new valve covers.

Since I have the motor out and awaiting installation in it's cradle, I would like to know what I should do to make this stock motor at least peppy enough to handle the 3200 high stall torque converter that is on the current TCI (leaky pig) 727 transmission.

This is a temporary motor, so not trying to spend a ton on this one , yet.
Let's say 1500 bucks to play with.

['Cuda Hunter]

This is what it is.

[Chryco Psycho]

The best results would come from pistons  to boost the compression & a cam  to make some power , new timing chain & gaskets & a new oil pump , all the parts from the 383 can be used , heads, oil pan , intake , pulleys , valve covers , water pump , build a strong short block & everything else can be upgraded with the 400 still in the car later on . You can use the cam & chain out of the 383 too .
 Basically just bore the 400 put in pistons & rings have it balanced & use all the 383 parts , use Al steel 383 crank too , should get away for $1000 or so !

['Cuda Hunter]

That makes sense to me.

1st question,

  What is your specific Piston selection that will fit in the block as is?  Or are you suggesting machine work?

[Chryco Psycho]

I do not have piston catalogs here , all got left behind , depends what you want to do , if you keep it 400 CI put in the steel crank & forged pistons , if you plan to stroke it use the steel crank & a decent piston ,get it balanced & run it ! I would bore it minimally to get the bores straight , I bet thee is a ridge even with the relatively low milage
 I would aim for around 9.6:1 compression , or use a dome piston to get quench with the open chamber heads & you could push 10:1 on pump gas

['Cuda Hunter]

Ok, my only problem is it seems to cost me 1K any time I have a shop even look at a motor.
The pistons and rings will be the 1K cost right.
So, the machine work will be on top of that.

If I'm in 2K already, should I just do the stroker? 
I see costs starting to just add up.  (expected)

[Chryco Psycho]

Shop charge boring a block should be around $160 , cleaning it & new frost plugs maybe $139 range , new pistons $5-600 cast or $6-700 forged, rings approx. $150,   balancing $200 , brg approx $200 , gaskets $59 from Jegs + intake gasket $30
 So around $1600 all in if you use the cam & parts from the 383
 Conversely a stroker kit with new  forged crank, rods, forged pistons, rings & brgs  all balanced would be approx. 2k from 440 Source + the machine work to clean & bore the block & assy if you cannot do that yourself & gaskets

['Cuda Hunter]

Hmmmm.  That stroker sure does sound tempting.

I wish I had access to the machines to do the serious work. I'd love to learn.

I have put a few motors together with someone over my shoulder. Never alone though. I'll have some questions. some, how about lots.

['Cuda Hunter]

With the stroker kit, can I still use the cam and heads from the 383 ?

['Cuda Hunter]

This is my local machine guy   http://rockymountaincylinderheads.com/

375 to make a stroker long block labor
150 if clearancing is needed

290 for hot tank, magna flux, freeze plugs and cam bearing

so, 800 for machine work and installation.

Now I need to know which stroker kit I should pick. 

Keep in mind that I would like to keep the 383 heads and cam. 

Some more help please.

[Chryco Psycho]

400 / 451 is the way I would go use the 6.76 rods & you have a lightweight 440 , you can use a dish dome piston to get the most out of the cast heads or use a flat top with the idea of swapping heads later .
The Engle cam will work , & you can use the best set of heads you have , heads cam be swapped out later easily for more power .
 clearancing will be minimal , , maybe some minor bore notches to clear rod bolts , 440 Source  cranks are a drop in unlike others !
 the other way to go would be to order new crank & rods & use the pistons & block from the 383 , you would need to balance the assy so it may not save much $$ & you have a worse rod ratio with the short rods  but the block would just need to be cleaned

['Cuda Hunter]

Should I have work done to the heads?
If so, which type of pistons?

I don't mind purchasing a 440 source crank
Who has the 6.76 rods?

all for the 400.  Not messing with the 383 until I can get this car back on the road.

[Chryco Psycho]

440 Source will have a kit with the 6.76 rods crank & pistons , if you are going to use Alum heads later on I would choose a piston based on the heads , if you are staying with Iron heads use the best piston to match them , port work is expensive so I would not bother with Iron heads if you plan to go to alum later , you have a number of head choices , from Stealth or Super stealth to Indy EZ , B1 , STage 6 ,etc

['Cuda Hunter]

I figure I'll stick with iron heads.
But I will have to think on that for a few.
Prices may dictate that.  Let me look around for that decision.

If I just stick with the iron heads, which piston type  would you prefer?

[Chryco Psycho]

Looks like a 5056 piston is the ticket with either alum or iron heads , 9.5 compression with 88cc iron heads , you could use a steel shim head gasket to bump the compression a little although the site does not list the gasket thickness used for compression calculations I would guess .038- .040 is the norm , I looked at all the other combinations  up to 512 ci in the 400 block & you either end up mid 10 or higher or 8:1 ! If you drop a closed chamber Alum  head on with a 78 cc chamber the compression will jump to 10:5 & will still be pump gas friendly .